Sport Model: audio solution thread

[fiveball]

Hey there I have a 2024 Nissan Z Sport MT. For now I’m just looking to add a Rockford sub. Previously I had a BRZ and I simply just tapped into the amplifier in the trunk and ran power to the battery. I’m looking to do the same with the Z Sport however I can’t find the location of the amp (my bad). Can someone please lead me in the right direction. Thank you, Jimmy

 

[Exquisite_Red]

Hey there I have a 2024 Nissan Z Sport MT. For now I’m just looking to add a Rockford sub. Previously I had a BRZ and I simply just tapped into the amplifier in the trunk and ran power to the battery. I’m looking to do the same with the Z Sport however I can’t find the location of the amp (my bad). Can someone please lead me in the right direction. Thank you, Jimmy

The Sport does not have a separate amp like the Performance; it is integrated into the A/V unit. If all you want is a sub, you could tap into the rear speaker signals to avoid pulling the head unit, but you’ll need a DSP or LOC that can restore the low end of the signal. Even though the factory speakers have integrated HPFs to protect them, the signal from the factory amp also has a sharp rolloff below 50Hz.

 

[fiveball]

The Sport does not have a separate amp like the Performance; it is integrated into the A/V unit. If all you want is a sub, you could tap into the rear speaker signals to avoid pulling the head unit, but you’ll need a DSP or LOC that can restore the low end of the signal. Even though the factory speakers have integrated HPFs to protect them, the signal from the factory amp also has a sharp rolloff below 50Hz.

Thank you very much for the info. I didn't realize no separate amp. I'll take your advice on the rear speaker then. I assume to get to the wires I'll need to pop out side panel behind seat? or can I access the wire somehow from the trunk under the foam inserts.

 

[Exquisite_Red]

Thank you very much for the info. I didn't realize no separate amp. I'll take your advice on the rear speaker then. I assume to get to the wires I'll need to pop out side panel behind seat? or can I access the wire somehow from the trunk under the foam inserts.

Pg 1 of this thread has some good info on how to access the rear speakers. To do it “right” you need to get the signal from both rear speakers for a stereo signal. Even below 80Hz there is a lot of stereo information you’ll be missing out on if you only grab the signal from one channel. I would recommend a subwoofer amp with speaker level inputs (rather than an LOC into an amp). Less failure points, less to wire up, and probably cheaper.

 

[Mugzilla]

Pg 1 of this thread has some good info on how to access the rear speakers. To do it “right” you need to get the signal from both rear speakers for a stereo signal. Even below 80Hz there is a lot of stereo information you’ll be missing out on if you only grab the signal from one channel. I would recommend a subwoofer amp with speaker level inputs (rather than an LOC into an amp). Less failure points, less to wire up, and probably cheaper.

You said it a LOT nicer than I was going to....

 

[HAVS]

I’m curious if you guys had to go to the dealership and turn off the ANC on your cars to have a decent sound system. In the Bose systems it’s built into the amp but in the sport models is it built into the head unit. Just trying to prepare for more frustration lol.

 

[Mugzilla]

I’m curious if you guys had to go to the dealership and turn off the ANC on your cars to have a decent sound system. In the Bose systems it’s built into the amp but in the sport models is it built into the head unit. Just trying to prepare for more frustration lol.

No ANC / ASE in the Sport.

https://www.nissanusa.com/content/dam/Nissan/us/vehicle-brochures/2025/2025-nissan-z-brochure-en.pdf

I found the 2023 and the 2025 brochure. Can't find the 2024 one. (I'd like to have it, since my Z is a'24...)

 

[tractng]

Pg 1 of this thread has some good info on how to access the rear speakers. To do it “right” you need to get the signal from both rear speakers for a stereo signal. Even below 80Hz there is a lot of stereo information you’ll be missing out on if you only grab the signal from one channel. I would recommend a subwoofer amp with speaker level inputs (rather than an LOC into an amp). Less failure points, less to wire up, and probably cheaper.

Would the JBL BassProp Hub fit the bill?

https://mm.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/JBL+BASSPRO+HUB.html

1) Grab the signal from the rear channels. Since they are crap sounding, just disconnect from the speakers and wire straight to the JBL hub.

2) Run a power line straight from the JBL hub to the battery with a fuse near the battery.

 

[Bobby]

Thanks for all the info Mugzilla. The Australian delivered 2023 Z I have has the Bose system but the door speakers are 6x9 from factory. I've ordered PowerBass OE692T-CN2. I used the same Pioneer dash speakers as you suggested but I used an angle grinder and drill bit to fit them into the same holes as the factory dash speakers so I didn't need to change the dash holes. I've ordered the OWC harness to install a Kenwood powered subwoofer but just need to run power to it. I have the Encore Alpha 3 Series amplifier but I'll leave that install until later as I have to remove most of the dash to install it. Appreciate the post.

 

[Mugzilla]

Thanks for all the info Mugzilla. The Australian delivered 2023 Z I have has the Bose system but the door speakers are 6x9 from factory. I've ordered PowerBass OE692T-CN2. I used the same Pioneer dash speakers as you suggested but I used an angle grinder and drill bit to fit them into the same holes as the factory dash speakers so I didn't need to change the dash holes. I've ordered the OWC harness to install a Kenwood powered subwoofer but just need to run power to it. I have the Encore Alpha 3 Series amplifier but I'll leave that install until later as I have to remove most of the dash to install it. Appreciate the post.

I was afraid of making metal shavings near magnets.... But looks like it worked out great!

 

[Neutr0n]

What do you guys do to get the signal to your DSP? do you make or buy your T-harness?

 

[HAVS]

I bought Metra harnesses the male and female versions. One thing that was an issue was one of the harness was missing the reverse wire but I pulled one pin out I wasn’t using and put it where it needed to be. Didn’t find that out till I had put the whole car back together . I’m very good at removing the radio now. lol

 

[HAVS]

I finished my sound system a few months and kinda forgot to pose any pics.

 

[Ntlavy85]

Hey folks, understanding this thread started with the non-Bose Sport system I still appreciated this thread since it helped me dial in my project on my 2024 Z. I thought I might add my experience. I also used the OWC Upgrade wiring harness platinum version – “Replace Factory Amp + Add a Subwoofer Amp”. I already owned a JL Audio xd 600/1v2 amp and JL Audio 12W6v3-D4 sub and transferred them over from another car I sold. I just had to get the sub box and I went with Zenclosures single 12’’upfire version. When I began this journey, I originally installed the JL Audio amp on top of the factory BOSE amp rack, and ran it with the entire stock BOSE system for about 6 months. As you can imagine, all the weak points of the factory system remained and I eventually replaced all the interior speakers (list below). This marginally improved the overall mids and highs sound quality, most notably was using 3 OHM rear speakers (vs factory 4 OHM) to actually hear them. In my final setup I custom cut to the rear pillars and added JL Audio tweeters (making it 8 interior non-sub speakers) and swapped out the BOSE amp for an Alpine PXE-0850x DSP amp. I chose this amp because of its lower current draw (20amp fuse), extra channels, wouldn’t overpower (25w RMS) the 3.5 rear speakers, DSP tuning, etc. I made a little amp rack out of cut to size 1/4in ABS plastic sheet, flexible metal hangers straps to anchor it, and some nuts and screws. If I had to recommend a setup to others, a smaller sub and amp setup would be much easier; I just started with what I already owned. So the JL Audio 12W6 sub is a great sub, but I didn’t like the clearly visible big heavy sub box, and it acoustically sub optimal due to this cars design and the generic sealed box. So, I sold the 12W6 to a friend and got two JL Audio 10TW3s, and paid a local shop to make two fiberglass boxes. It’s a dramatic improvement acoustically and looks bad @$$; this “corner loaded” setup improved the sub bass in deepness, SPL, the enclosures are hidden under the rear hatch, and I regained much of my trunk space.

Gear includes:

Door Speakers: 6x9s JL Audio C1-690 - I used the tweeters in custom cut rear pillar holes.

Dash Midrange / Tweeters: 2.5in Audiofrog GS25 – required some slight modification of the speaker frame tabs (removable). Dash speakers are the one’s you hear the most; you could certainly go with something cheaper and direct fit like Kicker KSC270 or Pioneer TS-A709.

Rear Midrange: 3.5 in 2-way Infinity Reference REF307F. Required slight modification of the OEM panel speaker screw mounting points to increase speaker mounting depth; see this an other threads with MugZilla. Due to shallow mounting depth, alternatively you could use RetroSound R-352N.

(Custom) Rear Pillar Tweeters: 1in JL Audio C1-100ct (came with 6x9s).

Alpine PXE-0850x DSP Amp - Drives components, 12-channel capable, wired remote, Bluetooth module, wired remote turn-on and subwoofer out (can drive the 4-channel OEM or DVC sub). Alternatively you could use Infinity DSP6840 DSP, but you’d want a plan to not over power the smaller speakers.

Two Custom fiberglass boxes for JL Audio 10TW3’s.

OWC platinum Harness and two pairs of OWC Speaker Harness Adapter: TK02MB. Not available from Crutchfield or otherwise. You’ll need these for the dash and rear speakers. T-Spec v12 Series VFDB2 fused distribution block, one-foot RCA cable (from DSP to sub amp), about 15 ft of 4-gauge OFC power wire, about one foot 6 AWG power, 2 feet of OFC 6 AWG ground wire, and an extra 2-foot 8 AWG ground wire.

As mentioned previously, there is zero splicing, OWC's harness plugs into the Nissan factory amp harnesses. OWC harness converts full range to Pre-amp signals via RCA. With this Alpine amp I could have driven the factory DVC sub or swap into a JBL BassPro Hub. I also like that I could keep all the factory wiring out to speakers. I turned off the ANC with an OB2 scan tool.

My homemade amp rack with two amps. The spacing isn’t generous and I had to cut into the removable foam rear floor shelf to create heat dissipation space. I also added sound deadening throughout the rear trunk and some in the front doors.

As you can imagine, with a DSP, replaced speakers, and subs this thing is about as good as its going to get using factory speaker locations, wiring, and mostly OEM look. Hopefully this helps give some additional ideas for builds. And thanks again for others who’ve posted!

 

[Neutr0n]

How long did it take for you to receive the OWC wires?