Selecting upgraded rotors+pads

[Thefunk]

I have the '24 Z Performance which has the Akebono calipers. After a track day the pads definitely feel worn as the bite has gone from sharp to soft. The car still stops fine on the street but I do intend on hitting the track again (soon!). I've been looking at all these pads and rotors from ECS and Z1. Question is should I match the pads to the rotors by manufacturer? Or can I mix lets say ECS Redstuff with Z1 rotors?

 

[Proto Z]

its very likely NOT the callipers. Unless you've done some significant performance upgrades to the car, you won't get much benefit out of callipers or rotors.

Upgrading the pad will give you much more braking confidence in both everyday street use, as well as on the track.
For track specifically, upgrade your brake lines to braided and also change the fluid to a higher performance type.

There are a handful of Z's here in Australia which are using simply upgraded pads and fluid for their track use. The first few times they went out stock they had massive brake fade, but it is all pretty much resolved now. Personally I would do the lines also - I like the feel of braided lines. Less spongy.

Oh... and new tyres will help a LOT too. You won't NEED to brake as much lol.

 

[Thefunk]

its very likely NOT the callipers. Unless you've done some significant performance upgrades to the car, you won't get much benefit out of callipers or rotors.

Upgrading the pad will give you much more braking confidence in both everyday street use, as well as on the track.
For track specifically, upgrade your brake lines to braided and also change the fluid to a higher performance type.

There are a handful of Z's here in Australia which are using simply upgraded pads and fluid for their track use. The first few times they went out stock they had massive brake fade, but it is all pretty much resolved now. Personally I would do the lines also - I like the feel of braided lines. Less spongy.

Oh... and new tyres will help a LOT too. You won't NEED to brake as much lol.

I didn't think the calipers were an issue. I did notice after the track day that the rotors are now scored. Especially the front. I ended up ordering the Z1 2-piece sprinkled-slotted rotors. Now I have to decide which pads to get. So far I'm leaning towards EBC Bluestuff. Not worried about dust since I have no problem cleaning my car.
And YES TIRES!!! The stock Potenza S007's aren't terrible they kept me on the track lol but they're not great. As for tires I think I'm going to go with the go-to Michelin PS4s.

Forgot to mention I also ordered steel brake lines from Z1

 

[rocksandblues]

Adding: you can mix and match pads and rotors- BUT you have to bed them in properly to avoid uneven material shudder. AND proper bed in knowledge and experience is LOW- For the track the process has to be violent and illegal speeds. Find a track friend who knows. I help bed in brakes all the time at track events.

 

[Koryak]

I'm guessing the performance package pads are Akebono ceramic. No dust but not up to the OP track needs. Considering the Z's weight, high temp pads and brake fluid should be a must for running a few track hot laps. I like the pedal feedback of braided lines too

 

[Thefunk]

I'm guessing the performance package pads are Akebono ceramic. No dust but not up to the OP track needs. Considering the Z's weight, high temp pads and brake fluid should be a must for running a few track hot laps. I like the pedal feedback of braided lines too

I guess the stock DOT 4 fluid isn't enough. Should I look at 5.1 or even 6?

 

[Evolution]

I guess the stock DOT 4 fluid isn't enough. Should I look at 5.1 or even 6?

Dont get all caught up on the DOT numbers. I would personally recommend a more track oriented fluid like Castrol SRF. Its not cheap but it does hold up to track use. You got to look more at wet and dry boiling point numbers.

 

[Koryak]

@ Thefunk - Stay away from any DOT 5.0 silicone fluid (bad pedal feel, especially sport bikes). DOT 5.1 is for anti-locks at low ambient temperatures but not usually racing temps. For street/track look for a high boiling temp DOT 3 or 4 intended for track use such as Wilwood, Motul or Redline oil.

BTW, Radford racing school used Castrol SRF in the past as students beat the snot out of brakes. Only problem I can think of is it isn't street legal as you need DOT certification for government compliance.

 

[Thefunk]

For street/track look for a high boiling temp DOT 3 or 4 intended for track use such as Wilwood, Motul or Redline oil.

Like this?
https://www.motul.com/th/en/products/rbf-660-factory-line

 

[Koryak]

Yes. BTW, I just checked and the current Castrol SRF is DOT 3/4. See https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/...DFAE514802585BA00487114/$File/WEPP-BS7LMU.pdf

 

[Evolution]

Like this?
https://www.motul.com/th/en/products/rbf-660-factory-line

I dont like the Motul stuff. Last time I used it, my pedal got soft on the track. Havent had any issues with the Castrol.

 

[rocksandblues]

I use and like stoptec STR660
If you track much at all, brake fluid should be changed every year. I track more than the ave bear and change twice a season.

Any of the high end fluids are fine. The trick to safety is not to sleep on changing it out. Multi year fluid soaks up too much water

 

[Thefunk]

I just got my Z1 2-piece slotted rotors. Question is are they worth it for mostly street and occasional track use? Or am I better off with stock rotors and better pads? I also got the steel brake lines. General research shows that two piece are better for heat management. Just want to make sure because I may still be able to return them since they're still in the box.

 

[Proto Z]

General research shows that two piece are better for heat management.

How?
Because the hub piece is aluminium? Sure... aluminium dissipates heat faster than steel, but in the conditions you are talking about (mainly street with occasional track work), the effects would be negligible.

Different story if you were purpose building a track car.

/my 2c.
At the end of the day, you do you.

 

[Thefunk]

How?
Because the hub piece is aluminium? Sure... aluminium dissipates heat faster than steel, but in the conditions you are talking about (mainly street with occasional track work), the effects would be negligible.

Different story if you were purpose building a track car.

/my 2c.
At the end of the day, you do you.

So the cooling effect of 2pc rotors are negligible unless the car is a dedicated track car? Idk man that sounds kinda weird. Heat is heat. Occasional track use will still heat up the wheels especially if I use better pads and better suspension because I will be more confident and pushing the car harder. So if I can mitigate the heat spreading into the entire wheel/knuckle why not? Not saying what you've experienced is wrong maybe you didn't see any difference.