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Need more from audio system

Xylander

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Who else can chime in reporting the Bose sucks on the performance model?
All Bose sucks. As the saying goes, "No highs, no lows, must be Bose!" I've literally never heard a Bose system of any kind that didn't sound like a sex crime in your ears.

But, you can tell the audio shop that the setup is similar to the prior model 370 Zs. Same chassis, same holes in the firewall to pass through (great if it's an auto, as they still put the hole in for the clutch it doesn't have). Speaker arrangement is also similar to the 370Z. I just had every Bose component yanked out of the car and replaced them all with Focals and added 2x 10" Focal subs and sound deadened the entire car. Now, it sounds good :)
 

Xylander

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Doesn't look like anyone has really answered your question.

First, you don't need to change the head unit to get better audio. You need better speakers, and possibly a sub/amp.

Second, the rear fill speakers are absolutely terrible, and there isn't a good way to make them sound better. taking them out would probably make the sound experience better.

Third, your budget is super important. you could drop a few hundred dollars, or a few thousand...

Finally, IDK why people talk about weight gain from adding to you audio system. the added weight will do almost nothing, unless you're tracking your car constantly and are an incredibly skilled driver already. It's your car, your money, and your experience.

Not knowing your budget, my suggestion is to upgrade to a set of mid-range speakers (Like the JL Audio C3 Components) with a 4 channel amp, and then get a spare tire sub, like the JBL BassPro Hub. that full setup should come in at like 1200 + Install. You could save by getting lower end components or skipping the Sub.
Yeah, my cost was certifiably mental and obscene. I've bought entire cars for less than what my sound system ran me... but I did have an extreme audiophile system installed. I'll just say that it was north of $10,000 and leave it at that.
 

IZUOKAY

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Can you take a photo of your settings? I've adjusted mine, and the bass still seems anemic.
Sorry for the delayed response, but here is a photo of how I have adjusted the audio settings. You can adjust the balance +1 F to have the sound come from the sides instead of being rear biased depending on your preference.

My reference song was Me and Your Mama - Childish Gambino at the volume of 30 and it fits my expectations for the audio system.

Overall, I agree with everyone's input that the audio in the Sport is definitely low quality and the Bose in the Performance and Nismo models is very underwhelming and if you want top notch audio in the Z, you are going to have to fork up some money and upgrade components.

20251022_085908.webp
 

bpeckham

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Sorry for the delayed response, but here is a photo of how I have adjusted the audio settings. You can adjust the balance +1 F to have the sound come from the sides instead of being rear biased depending on your preference.

My reference song was Me and Your Mama - Childish Gambino at the volume of 30 and it fits my expectations for the audio system.

Overall, I agree with everyone's input that the audio in the Sport is definitely low quality and the Bose in the Performance and Nismo models is very underwhelming and if you want top notch audio in the Z, you are going to have to fork up some money and upgrade components.

20251022_085908.webp
That's about what I did. I think I'm finally noticing the rear speakers now.
 

50thZ

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50thZ

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Sorry for the delayed response, but here is a photo of how I have adjusted the audio settings. You can adjust the balance +1 F to have the sound come from the sides instead of being rear biased depending on your preference.

My reference song was Me and Your Mama - Childish Gambino at the volume of 30 and it fits my expectations for the audio system.

Overall, I agree with everyone's input that the audio in the Sport is definitely low quality and the Bose in the Performance and Nismo models is very underwhelming and if you want top notch audio in the Z, you are going to have to fork up some money and upgrade components.

20251022_085908.webp
Exactly except on mine I went one up on the fade to the front.
 

AshwinSan

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As someone that builds and tunes SQ setups in cars, this Bose setup is ā€œmid.ā€

it is lacking high mid range frequencies and a true blend but I will say it is well in phase depending on your seating position and the soundstage is great. The highs are just not there as well as the bass. For reference I have mild bass in my SQ cars for a single 11ā€ focal polyglass subwoofer only on 400w rms. This Bose subwoofer is a joke. I disconnected the subwoofer because it was cancelling out the midbass and it sounds so much better for a balanced tone. What is happening is the doors actually handle low tones due to the 6x9s and are versatile, however, the Bose subwoofer has a stupid emphasis around 60-100hz which is midbass category in my opinion and basically nothing below 40hz. I would definitely delete the factory subwoofer and run a standalone setup and have the dealer turn off ASE AND NC.

In my case I am going to bypass the whole factory amplifier and have a full active setup most likely into a Helix DSP (figuring out how many channels I want or if I want rear ambience in this car) or a Mini DSP 8x12.

just frustrating how the factory subwoofer sucks but I am sure it is due to the noise cancellation and ASE that it sounds very bad.
 

Xylander

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As someone that builds and tunes SQ setups in cars, this Bose setup is ā€œmid.ā€

it is lacking high mid range frequencies and a true blend but I will say it is well in phase depending on your seating position and the soundstage is great. The highs are just not there as well as the bass. For reference I have mild bass in my SQ cars for a single 11ā€ focal polyglass subwoofer only on 400w rms. This Bose subwoofer is a joke. I disconnected the subwoofer because it was cancelling out the midbass and it sounds so much better for a balanced tone. What is happening is the doors actually handle low tones due to the 6x9s and are versatile, however, the Bose subwoofer has a stupid emphasis around 60-100hz which is midbass category in my opinion and basically nothing below 40hz. I would definitely delete the factory subwoofer and run a standalone setup and have the dealer turn off ASE AND NC.

In my case I am going to bypass the whole factory amplifier and have a full active setup most likely into a Helix DSP (figuring out how many channels I want or if I want rear ambience in this car) or a Mini DSP 8x12.

just frustrating how the factory subwoofer sucks but I am sure it is due to the noise cancellation and ASE that it sounds very bad.
I couldn't ever tell my factory sub was ever on. I gutted mine on the 3rd day I had the car :)
 

Zplz

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One option I enjoy is to put the door windows down, turn off the radio, and listen to the NISMO cat-back. ;)

Unfortunately, this will probably be less of an option when it’s pushing around 100 degrees here in H-town, with the stifling humidity making it even more enjoyable. :(
 

Xylander

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One option I enjoy is to put the door windows down, turn off the radio, and listen to the NISMO cat-back. ;)

Unfortunately, this will probably be less of an option when it’s pushing around 100 degrees here in H-town, with the stifling humidity making it even more enjoyable. :(
I initially did my mondo stereo upgrade to drown out that noise. But, I'm not a fan of the sound of V or inline 6 engines in general.
 

FSUZ33

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… But, I'm not a fan of the sound of V or inline 6 engines in general.
Agreed. Although in my opinion there’s something about a 911 engine that heals me. It’s got a note that thatā€s hard to explain. It’s more pronounced when they’re on the pit limiter. You can hear it in a street car when they get on it.
If I could make my Z sound like that, just go ahead and bury her with me because I’m never giving her up.
 
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Zhoop44

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Agreed. Although in my opinion there’s something about a 911 engine that heals me. It’s got a note that thatā€s hard to explain. It’s more pronounced when they’re on the pit limiter. You can hear it in a street car when they get on it.
If I could make my Z sound like that, just go ahead and bury her with me because I’m never giving her up.
Maybe another $100k and you can get there. 🤣
 

socketz67

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Hello Everyone. I'm a moderator on MyG37 and owned a 2004.5 G Sport Sedan prior.

First post here. Regarding the Bose in the new Z, do any of you know if the Bose amp is the same used in the G37/Q50? Knowing Nissan, I suspect its the same or very similar in its use of a balanced output.

If that's the case, you can buy an adapter that taps off the low level input to the amp and use the RCAs to drive a sub/amp plus DSP, similar to mine. This completely changes the personality of the Bose "Studio on Wheels" setup.

https://www.owc-upgrades.com/produc...io-interface-harness-adapters-platinum-series

Chris is the owner/engineer. Good guy if you want to call. He also keeps a list of compatible amps and can provide guidance if you decide to take this route.

IMG_7821.webp


Here's some rough pricing (I paid a little less because my installer of many years is franchised with DD and matched online pricing):
  1. Sub: https://www.amazon.com/SL610-D4-Shallow-Subwoofer-Speaker/dp/B0BMZG9PSH/ref=sr_1_4
  2. Amp: https://ddaudio.com/ss-series/monoblocks/ss850/ ($269, discontinued but newer model avail)
  3. Bass Restoration/DSP: https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-EPICENTER-Black-Restoration-Processor/dp/B01EE3Y53Q
.75 cubic/ft enclosure was about $50, but since boot space is limited in the Z, I would likely run with something custom if/when I own one.
 
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50thZ

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