Hard Wire Radar Detector/Camera in about 15 minutes

[Hernandooo]

In construction zones in my area, they post up radar devices along the highway that caused my detector to show Ka band signals coming from all directions at varying strengths and it was for about 2-3 miles. It wasn't a glitch.

the detector I have saves those false readings and stores them. Usually they're in the 24.xxx khz range. The highway patrol here are usually on 34.xxx khz, and they leave their radar on at all times.

 

[5thZ]

Awesome - i wish i could find a ka speed sign for testing. What frequency?

I can set a gps lockout that will auto mute by location for those with a signal strength level threshold that would allow strong signals to over ride the lockout. Even with the lockout i still get a visual alert but auto muted and grayed out.

This sounds like my Escort Max 360c. Do you have one of those? I haven't used a detector since I sold my GT-R...I'll probably have to update firmware before using it in the new Z

 

[thesilverbullet]

This sounds like my Escort Max 360c. Do you have one of those? I haven't used a detector since I sold my GT-R...I'll probably have to update firmware before using it in the new Z

i’m running a uniden r8w in my z. im running a r8 in my daily.

uniden has become the leader since they released their r series - the r1 & r3 knocked the king (the original escort RL w/ rdr & segmented) off the hill many years ago.

escort is really not escort anymore.
they were sold to a holding company and have went down hill ever since. their newer products are slow and have issues with i/0 and quick hit shots. range is ok but fell behind the r series. the r series are lightings fast with the longest range on the market. v1 gen2 is as good but you need the jbv1 app to be on par with r series.

 

[RobotAZ]

i’m running a uniden r8w in my z. im running a r8 in my daily.

uniden has become the leader since they released their r series - the r1 & r3 knocked the king (the original escort RL w/ rdr & segmented) off the hill many years ago.

escort is really not escort anymore.
they were sold to a holding company and have went down hill ever since. their newer products are slow and have issues with i/0 and quick hit shots. range is ok but fell behind the r series. the r series are lightings fast with the longest range on the market. v1 gen2 is as good but you need the jbv1 app to be on par with r series.

I put an R4 on this mount and very happy. I lately have added the insulating trim piece that you see in gray. It reduces vibration to 0% to the human eye.

It could look a lot cleaner but because I update the unit with a PC it doesn’t make much sense to worry about it. But it’s definitely the way if you go this route.

https://a.co/d/aGcDgNX

 

[thesilverbullet]

the detector I have saves those false readings and stores them. Usually they're in the 24.xxx khz range. The highway is patrol here are usually on 34.xxx khz, and they leave their radar on at all times.

that’s the same here.

k is rare in my area. so for the most part i turn k off unless i’m traveling.

 

[thesilverbullet]

I put an R4 on this mount and very happy. I lately have added the insulating trim piece that you see in gray. It reduces vibration to 0% to the human eye.

It could look a lot cleaner but because I update the unit with a PC it doesn’t make much sense to worry about it. But it’s definitely the way if you go this route.

https://a.co/d/aGcDgNX

Looking good. The R4 is smoking fast like the z. Im mounted on the rv mirror as well with a blendmount

 

[Cherry3z]

Couldn't find any other details on line, so thought I would post it here. Very simple. I used a Mirror Mount to attach my radar detector to the rearview mirror stalk. Wiring is super simple when plugging into day/night mirror. Black is ground and one of the green wires on my car was switched. The other green wire must be unswitched for Homelink.
I used this for the connection: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082V1245P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details, and it comes in 3 sizes. I used the smallest.
Super simple

Which mirror mount did you use? All the ones I've seen, don't look like they'd work for our mirror.

 

[hipertec]

Are you able to use the same power for dash cams and radar?

 

[RadzShadow]

So, I am an old man compared to most people in the forum. Even with my cell phone cam, I can only see one black wire, the other two (in my case) are both green. The probes on my MM are too big to get a good reading of which green wire is always on. I spoke with a couple of friends on a way to test again ... the saga ...

 

[5thZ]

I'm not sure it was mentioned or not, but I've used blend mounts in the past, but this lil guy popped up in my feed recently. Looks kinda OEM-like

https://www.roadspy.com/our-product...d=120215344930500220&ad_id=120230469957220220

 

[Dying Star]

You guys are all over it. The mirror tap is awesome but can be unreliable. If you have trouble, you can snap open the wire connector drop in the wire tap pins and close the connector which will clamp the wire tap and give a better connection..

escort & V1 was the king of the hill back in the day. But modern day escort is dead along with their products. The new king is uniden R3, R4, R4w R7, R8, R8w & R9w. The V1 Gen2 is still in the game although the founder just passed (also the co-founder of escort).

best info and real world test results for counter measures is vortex radar.com and rdforum.org.

The nissan infinity installation manual for the updated “oem” nissan camera has instructions on how to remove and hardwire the mirror assembly per se. It’s perfect for showing you which wire to use, without tapping, it’s a great point of reference for other branded radar detectors. Hope this helps

 

[RadzShadow]

You guys are all over it. The mirror tap is awesome but can be unreliable.

escort & V1 was the king of the hill back in the day. But modern day escort is dead along with their products. The new king is uniden R3, R4, R4w R7, R8, R8w & R9w. The V1 Gen2 is still in the game although the founder just passed (also the co-founder of escort).

best info and real world test results for counter measures is vortex radar.com and rdforum.org.

I am an old man and can't really see how to: "If you have trouble, you can snap open the wire connector drop in the wire tap pins and close the connector which will clamp the wire tap and give a better connection."
Any insights on how-to would be appreciated! I am trying not to destroy the connector.

 

[thesilverbullet]

I am an old man and can't really see how to: "If you have trouble, you can snap open the wire connector drop in the wire tap pins and close the connector which will clamp the wire tap and give a better connection."
Any insights on how-to would be appreciated! I am trying not to destroy the connector.

I don’t think you will need to crack open the connector. I purchased a Blendmount brand mirror tap and it worked without opening the connector.

Back in the day the mirror tap solutions were using round pins and shipped with one size that you had to preselect - which made it easier said than done. So popping the connector open worked good for the round pins.

The newer mirror taps are now using a flat pin instead of a standard round pin. They also include multiple sizes. The Blendmount brand mirror tap has flat pins and were easy to slide into the connector as advertised. I used the smallest pins and a wire tie to keep the pins from being pulled out of the connector.

I would recommend grabbing your readers and go at it. if you go for a knockoff with multiple sizes, just make sure the pins are flat.

i normally hardwire from the fuse box with a bussman add a circuit. if you have the factory/port lighted kick plates, there is open connector for power as well. But i took the high road on this one and did the mirror tap and no issues so far.

https://blendmount.com/mirrortap
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...duct-profiles/bus-ele-pp-10290-add-a-fuse.pdf

 

[RadzShadow]

I don’t think you will need to crack open the connector. I purchase a Blendmount brand mirror tap and it worked without opening the connector.

Back in the day the mirror tap solutions were using round pins and shipped with one size that you had to preselect - which made it easier said than done. So popping the connector open worked good for the round pins.

The newer mirror taps are now using a flat pin instead of a standard round pin. They also include multiple sizes. The Blendmount brand mirror tap has flat pins and were easy to slide into the connector as advertised. I used the smallest pins and a wire tie to keep the pins from being pulled out of the connector.

I would recommend grabbing your readers and go at it. if you go for a knockoff with multiple sizes, just make sure the pins are flat.

i normally hardwire from the fuse box with a bussman add a circuit. if you have the factory/port lighted kick plates, there is open connector for power as well. But i took the high road on this one and did the mirror tap and no issues so far.

https://blendmount.com/mirrortap
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...duct-profiles/bus-ele-pp-10290-add-a-fuse.pdf

My problem is my multimeter probes are too big to find the always hot vs. the igniton on. I have a way around that now, with a three day weekend ... I know I can get it done. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082V1245P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
so I know I can get this to work. If I can open the harness and put the MM on it, then I can tell the hot/not hot and be done with.
There is a white connector on the harness that looks like it will open more, but I can't see well enough to open it.
Paper clips
I will need bail money ... I need to open a GoFundMe.
Love this car.

 

[thesilverbullet]

Are you able to use the same power for dash cams and radar?

Did you figure this one out?

are you referring to using a mirror tap for both? not sure its a good idea to power both from the rv mirror. It depends on the amp draw. most radar detectors are < 1 amp. How many amps is the dash cam? If the cam is <1 amp, then that maybe reasonable. If it’s 2+ amps, i would wire from the fuse box.