Hands Up all the Aussies

[peter]

In WA they can not if the contract has been written over 12 months
After 12 month if the product hasn’t been delivered the customer has the right to refuse the contract and get their money back….my dealer told me this himself.
So must be different here .
I would never have signed if I didn’t think I could get my deposit back

Got a follow up call by dealer today to see how I liked the car and drive on the weekend and asked about deposit refunds he stated that if you placed on order in FEB 2023 and the car was not delivered by Mar 2024 you would get your deposit back.

 

[peter]

re car insurance
had a talk to a friend who is a smash repairer and he advises against Budget Direct, advised that if you damaged say one of your mirrors that they would go out of their way to find a second hand or non OEM part.

re washing
anyone thought about washing with a snow foam cannon and then drying off with a car air dryer, both would significantly reduce swirl marks. Two or three bucket method would be required when car got really dirty

 

[Proto Z]

Hello Peter. Did you notice any rev hang on the upshifts? When I test drove a Z recently the revs would not drop quickly when changing up through the gears when accelerating quickly. Just wondering if this might have been specific to the car I tested - or whether it is just a characteristic of the car. I found it very annoying and made the shifts jerky. I have driven manual cars for years - but maybe I need to spend more time in the car. Come to think of it, the Z has a very high clutch bite point. Maybe I am hitting the throttle slightly before my left leg has fully leg go of the clutch, etc.

I'll just inject myself here...
I haven't noticed what you are talking about. Closest I have come to that phenomenon is on downshift with rev matching on. It's my first manual with rev matching and it was a bit disconcerting at first, but now freaking love it!

If it is definitely on upshifting, I reckon it may have just been the bite point of the clutch. It did take me a solid week or so to get really comfortable with it. Now its harder to drive other manuals

 

[West Aussie]

So ladies and gents…we are now in Feb…the month many of us have build dates.
How many times this month can I contact my dealer for potential updates before it’s classified as stalking?

 

[Proto Z]

re car insurance
had a talk to a friend who is a smash repairer and he advises against Budget Direct, advised that if you damaged say one of your mirrors that they would go out of their way to find a second hand or non OEM part.

re washing
anyone thought about washing with a snow foam cannon and then drying off with a car air dryer, both would significantly reduce swirl marks. Two or three bucket method would be required when car got really dirty

I'm paying $54/Mo with Rollin', but am about to change to Shannon's at $102/Mo. Rollin' won't cover me with the mods.

I will strongly advise anyone/everyone against Youi after a truely shit experience with them. If anyone wants deets just let me know, but seriously just avoid them like the plague.

RE washing: I use a snow canon with chemicals that are ceramic coat safe. I use a microfibre mitt, and 2m microfibre towel- trick is don't wipe... Just throw it on and lift it off.
Literally have washed it every weekend (yellow shows so much fucking dirt...) since September and no swirl marks yet. Was really worried about the black panel between tail lights, but so far so good.

I personally wouldn't use a car dryer, at least with BNE water (other states might be different). Water is too hard, and evaporative drying leaves mineral rings which scratch the fuck out of paint.

 

[Proto Z]

Folks, I got the car back today with the RBE exhaust.
Ho-ly-shit it sounds good.

I hate ricers with massive canons that sound like dry farts and drone at 70kph+.
Zero drone so far and the tone is just mint.
Quiet as stock with the valve closed and loud enough to draw attention when it's full open.

Can hear a little more mechanical/turbo noise now, and I like it. So much so that I will do the secondary cat removal.
At this stage plan is to dyno again tomorrow just to get another reference number, then a bit more exhaust work Wednesday/Thursday.
I'm hoping to get the final Dyno time on Saturday, unless it throws codes, in which case Thursday night - we'll take a good long time with it, not just to squeeze out the numbers, but to play with some different ECUtek maps.
... I want a crackle tune ok... Stop judging me...

I know a few people want to hear it... I'm sorry I fucked up. Trusted my friend to record, and his phone is a potato.
I can text it over, but it's not great ?

 

[West Aussie]

I'm paying $54/Mo with Rollin', but am about to change to Shannon's at $102/Mo. Rollin' won't cover me with the mods.

I will strongly advise anyone/everyone against Youi after a truely shit experience with them. If anyone wants deets just let me know, but seriously just avoid them like the plague.

RE washing: I use a snow canon with chemicals that are ceramic coat safe. I use a microfibre mitt, and 2m microfibre towel- trick is don't wipe... Just throw it on and lift it off.
Literally have washed it every weekend (yellow shows so much fucking dirt...) since September and no swirl marks yet. Was really worried about the black panel between tail lights, but so far so good.

I personally wouldn't use a car dryer, at least with BNE water (other states might be different). Water is too hard, and evaporative drying leaves mineral rings which scratch the fuck out of paint.

In WA I’ve always found the RAC excellent to deal with and also the cheapest.
So much so that many wouldn’t even insure my Peugeot (and I garage it and live in a good area) and they were $300 cheaper than the other company who would.
They have also always been very quick and fair with claims

Yet to try Shannon’s though

 

[Proto Z]

In WA I’ve always found the RAC excellent to deal with and also the cheapest.
So much so that many wouldn’t even insure my Peugeot (and I garage it and live in a good area) and they were $300 cheaper than the other company who would.
They have also always been very quick and fair with claims

Yet to try Shannon’s though

Haven't heard of RAC, but suspect they might be the same as NRMA/RACQ's of other states?
I tried a quote with them pretty early on, but it was about $180/mo. I thought Rollin was a mistake at first, but have quoted annomously a couple of times since and it is always the same. I'd bet it's just a lack of data. It's literally cheaper than my Tiguan beater which is worth all of $15k.

Shannon's will allow you to have pretty much any modification you want.
Most places will exclude you for suspension or engine mods. Even exhausts.

 

[fliplover]

So ladies and gents…we are now in Feb…the month many of us have build dates.
How many times this month can I contact my dealer for potential updates before it’s classified as stalking?

Since it isn't a leap year, I'd keep it under 28. ?

 

[Mud]

Maybe I am hitting the throttle slightly before my left leg has fully leg go of the clutch, etc.

Yes this but the other way around also.
ie: not lifting all the way off the throttle before pressing in the clutch

 

[Mud]

Looking at those nice clean photos of your Z undercarriage, have you thought about any rustproof coating on the underbody? Or maybe in your location it's not much necessary?

No where in Australia uses salt on roads.
If we did it would be chicken salt.

 

[loudsx]

No where in Australia uses salt on roads.
If we did it would be chicken salt.

mmm chicken salt

 

[jpw]

I'll just inject myself here...
I haven't noticed what you are talking about. Closest I have come to that phenomenon is on downshift with rev matching on. It's my first manual with rev matching and it was a bit disconcerting at first, but now freaking love it!

If it is definitely on upshifting, I reckon it may have just been the bite point of the clutch. It did take me a solid week or so to get really comfortable with it. Now its harder to drive other manuals

Hi. For me it was definitely on the upshifts - but maybe I do just need to adjust to the high clutch bite point - or maybe it was just that car. For downshifts I prefer to turn rev matching off and heel/toe myself - which you can do in the Z.

 

[jpw]

Yes this but the other way around also.
ie: not lifting all the way off the throttle before pressing in the clutch

Yes - that could also be my issue. Guess I will get used to it when I get my car.

 

[morgand]

Yes - that could also be my issue. Guess I will get used to it when I get my car.

The auto is faster.....

I have nothing to add.