Hands Up all the Aussies

OP
OP

West Aussie

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So ladies and gents…we are now in Feb…the month many of us have build dates.
How many times this month can I contact my dealer for potential updates before it’s classified as stalking🤣
 

Proto Z

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re car insurance
had a talk to a friend who is a smash repairer and he advises against Budget Direct, advised that if you damaged say one of your mirrors that they would go out of their way to find a second hand or non OEM part.

re washing
anyone thought about washing with a snow foam cannon and then drying off with a car air dryer, both would significantly reduce swirl marks. Two or three bucket method would be required when car got really dirty
I'm paying $54/Mo with Rollin', but am about to change to Shannon's at $102/Mo. Rollin' won't cover me with the mods.

I will strongly advise anyone/everyone against Youi after a truely shit experience with them. If anyone wants deets just let me know, but seriously just avoid them like the plague.

RE washing: I use a snow canon with chemicals that are ceramic coat safe. I use a microfibre mitt, and 2m microfibre towel- trick is don't wipe... Just throw it on and lift it off.
Literally have washed it every weekend (yellow shows so much fucking dirt...) since September and no swirl marks yet. Was really worried about the black panel between tail lights, but so far so good.

I personally wouldn't use a car dryer, at least with BNE water (other states might be different). Water is too hard, and evaporative drying leaves mineral rings which scratch the fuck out of paint.
 

Proto Z

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Folks, I got the car back today with the RBE exhaust.
Ho-ly-shit it sounds good.

I hate ricers with massive canons that sound like dry farts and drone at 70kph+.
Zero drone so far and the tone is just mint.
Quiet as stock with the valve closed and loud enough to draw attention when it's full open.

Can hear a little more mechanical/turbo noise now, and I like it. So much so that I will do the secondary cat removal.
At this stage plan is to dyno again tomorrow just to get another reference number, then a bit more exhaust work Wednesday/Thursday.
I'm hoping to get the final Dyno time on Saturday, unless it throws codes, in which case Thursday night - we'll take a good long time with it, not just to squeeze out the numbers, but to play with some different ECUtek maps.
... I want a crackle tune ok... Stop judging me...

I know a few people want to hear it... I'm sorry I fucked up. Trusted my friend to record, and his phone is a potato.
I can text it over, but it's not great 🙃
 
OP
OP

West Aussie

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I'm paying $54/Mo with Rollin', but am about to change to Shannon's at $102/Mo. Rollin' won't cover me with the mods.

I will strongly advise anyone/everyone against Youi after a truely shit experience with them. If anyone wants deets just let me know, but seriously just avoid them like the plague.

RE washing: I use a snow canon with chemicals that are ceramic coat safe. I use a microfibre mitt, and 2m microfibre towel- trick is don't wipe... Just throw it on and lift it off.
Literally have washed it every weekend (yellow shows so much fucking dirt...) since September and no swirl marks yet. Was really worried about the black panel between tail lights, but so far so good.

I personally wouldn't use a car dryer, at least with BNE water (other states might be different). Water is too hard, and evaporative drying leaves mineral rings which scratch the fuck out of paint.
In WA I’ve always found the RAC excellent to deal with and also the cheapest.
So much so that many wouldn’t even insure my Peugeot (and I garage it and live in a good area) and they were $300 cheaper than the other company who would.
They have also always been very quick and fair with claims

Yet to try Shannon’s though
 

Proto Z

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In WA I’ve always found the RAC excellent to deal with and also the cheapest.
So much so that many wouldn’t even insure my Peugeot (and I garage it and live in a good area) and they were $300 cheaper than the other company who would.
They have also always been very quick and fair with claims

Yet to try Shannon’s though
Haven't heard of RAC, but suspect they might be the same as NRMA/RACQ's of other states?
I tried a quote with them pretty early on, but it was about $180/mo. I thought Rollin was a mistake at first, but have quoted annomously a couple of times since and it is always the same. I'd bet it's just a lack of data. It's literally cheaper than my Tiguan beater which is worth all of $15k.

Shannon's will allow you to have pretty much any modification you want.
Most places will exclude you for suspension or engine mods. Even exhausts.
 

fliplover

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So ladies and gents…we are now in Feb…the month many of us have build dates.
How many times this month can I contact my dealer for potential updates before it’s classified as stalking🤣
Since it isn't a leap year, I'd keep it under 28. 🤣
 

indio22

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Busy couple of days...
Front/Rear sway bars fitted out at Whiteline (Fulcrum). Turn in even more precise now - I have done a bit of testing on the softest dampening settings (closest I can get to stock) and it's much better. Will slowly retune it to a harder dampening to hit sweet spot for it (keeping in mind it's pretty much my daily at the moment).

First baseline dyno is done - AK Racing were surprised that the numbers were as high as they were. We were expecting 250-260kw at the bags. Peaked at 281kw/461nm on (Australian) 98 octane fuel. No other performance mods. Note both lines are pure baseline - no tuning whatsoever.

We did this baseline only to test a couple of different exhaust configurations. Rob Bliss Exhausts are working on a system now, but we are going to start with effectively a 3.5" axle back first. Once we run another baseline, I'll then take it for a catback (removing secondary cats), test again and finally I'll do turbo back and intakes before a final ramp and tune.
I included a pic of the exhaust setup from lunchtime. Haven't had a chance to go back yet, but I'll try to get more pics and a sound clip if I can fit it all in around work.

Any questions, ask away.
As always, happy to show and tell once it's all in too. All the service I've had from AK Racing and Rob Bliss has just been top notch so far. Can't recommend them highly enough!

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Looking at those nice clean photos of your Z undercarriage, have you thought about any rustproof coating on the underbody? Or maybe in your location it's not much necessary?

Here in Chicagoland (salt city), I avoid driving my BRZ during winter, whenever the roads are salted. Under my 4x4s and inside the frames, I spray a clear lanolin type coating called Wool Wax.

If I ever get a new Z, I might at least spray the Wool Wax into the various "captive" areas of the unibody, to try and avoid water/dirt collecting and the rust monster.
 

Mud

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Maybe I am hitting the throttle slightly before my left leg has fully leg go of the clutch, etc.
Yes this but the other way around also.
ie: not lifting all the way off the throttle before pressing in the clutch
 

jpw

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I'll just inject myself here...
I haven't noticed what you are talking about. Closest I have come to that phenomenon is on downshift with rev matching on. It's my first manual with rev matching and it was a bit disconcerting at first, but now freaking love it!

If it is definitely on upshifting, I reckon it may have just been the bite point of the clutch. It did take me a solid week or so to get really comfortable with it. Now its harder to drive other manuals :(
Hi. For me it was definitely on the upshifts - but maybe I do just need to adjust to the high clutch bite point - or maybe it was just that car. For downshifts I prefer to turn rev matching off and heel/toe myself - which you can do in the Z.
 

jpw

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Yes this but the other way around also.
ie: not lifting all the way off the throttle before pressing in the clutch
Yes - that could also be my issue. Guess I will get used to it when I get my car.
 
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