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Are the burbles fake?

alienpoker

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Just cut ONE wire. If the Bose can’t sense engine RPM, it makes NO fake noise to my knowledge.
There’s a thread here that covers the wire location on the Amp.
 

FSUZ33

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Not necessarily the right place to discuss this, but has Nissan detailed the differences between Sport and Sport+? I was under the impression that the only difference was the shift mapping.
 

Dying Star

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Let's be real here.
Is anyone in your car going to be like "Yo those burbles are so fake!"

No.

Is your date about to take her shirt off and then stop and say "I would continue but I don't date guys with fake burbles."

No.
still, you can’t forget those moments, like that one time a Mazda hatchback pulled up next to me with fake intake/turbo sounds 🤣
 
OP
OP
funnyman850

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Here are my findings:

1. It Burbles slighlty when letting off sometimes

2. It does not burble on downshifts meaning the ones you hear in the cabin are in fact, confirmed, fake.
 

CPerdomo

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Here are my findings:

1. It Burbles slighlty when letting off sometimes

2. It does not burble on downshifts meaning the ones you hear in the cabin are in fact, confirmed, fake.
😧
 

MCN1SMO

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Not necessarily the right place to discuss this, but has Nissan detailed the differences between Sport and Sport+? I was under the impression that the only difference was the shift mapping.

the engine timing itself its different in Sport+ its not just shifts. this was an publicized and glossed over at the launch of the NISMO

Building on the excellent basic performance of the 3.0L V6 twin-turbo VR30DDTT, the Fairlady Z NISMO has implemented special engine tuning to fully exploit its potential. Specifically, the turbo boost has been increased and the electric wastegate valve control has been modified. Precise control of boost pressure improves power and torque. Additionally, the engine employs individual cylinder ignition timing control developed for the GT-R NISMO's VR38DETT. Optimal ignition timing control for each cylinder enhances power and torque. These NISMO-specific tuning techniques significantly increase maximum output and torque compared to the Fairlady Z, reaching 309kW (420PS) at 6400 rpm and 520N・m (53.0kgf・m) at 2000-5200 rpm. Furthermore, when the SPORT+ drive mode is selected, valve timing is altered. Torque is generated instantly when the accelerator is pressed, improving response.
 

MCN1SMO

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from the JDM Nissan site

when the SPORT or SPORT+ drive mode is selected, Active Sound Control reproduces the afterburn sound that occurs in racing cars when lifting off the accelerator or changing gears.
 

CPerdomo

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the engine timing itself its different in Sport+ its not just shifts. this was an publicized and glossed over at the launch of the NISMO
That's what I had understood.
Thanks for confirming it.
 

CPerdomo

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Building on the excellent basic performance of the 3.0L V6 twin-turbo VR30DDTT, the Fairlady Z NISMO has implemented special engine tuning to fully exploit its potential. Specifically, the turbo boost has been increased and the electric wastegate valve control has been modified. Precise control of boost pressure improves power and torque. Additionally, the engine employs individual cylinder ignition timing control developed for the GT-R NISMO's VR38DETT. Optimal ignition timing control for each cylinder enhances power and torque. These NISMO-specific tuning techniques significantly increase maximum output and torque compared to the Fairlady Z, reaching 309kW (420PS) at 6400 rpm and 520N・m (53.0kgf・m) at 2000-5200 rpm. Furthermore, when the SPORT+ drive mode is selected, valve timing is altered. Torque is generated instantly when the accelerator is pressed, improving response.
This is a considerable difference...
 

RadzShadow

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Just cut ONE wire. If the Bose can’t sense engine RPM, it makes NO fake noise to my knowledge.
There’s a thread here that covers the wire location on the Amp.
I’m trying to track down that thread again. The pinout diagram wasn’t very clear about which wire needed to be removed. If anyone has a link to the thread—or the how-to guide—I’d really appreciate it.


I did disable the ASE/ANC myself, but I’m still getting what sounds like some residual noise from the subwoofer.
 
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FSUZ33

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I’m trying to track down that thread again. The pinout diagram wasn’t very clear about which wire needed to be removed. If anyone has a link to the thread—or the how-to guide—I’d really appreciate it.

I did disable the ASE/ANC myself, but I’m still getting what sounds like some residual noise from the subwoofer.
Was it this one?
 

RadzShadow

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I thought so, found that one after my post ... I remember posting it was way too invasive to go all the way to the chassis :) ... a pinout diagram at the subwoofer itself, rather than at the amp, would be much better.
Trying to remember something about pin 16?
I don't have to cut it, I have the proper tools to remove the offending pin.
Original post ... zero response :( @Apex_Z
1773371286214-gi.webp
 
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