Anyone changed wheel studs?

FSUZ33

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RZ34, or possibly Z34 (not sure how similar the hubs and other guts are under there).

Would like wheel spacers. Thinking 15 & 20. That will work, no scrub, on a bone-stock NISMO, right? Sounds like people are going 20 front, 25 rear on Perfs/Rays with no issues, and not trying to push the limit.

Also thinking 20mm extended studs and machining 5mm off for the fronts. A tad more as a package than bolt on spacers, but I dont want to shave the OEM front studs, and the setup is supposed to be an RCH more robust than bolt on (if you have to google that, congrats on not being an old fart like me). Also I don’t like the spacer nuts hidden and uncheckable with the wheels mounted. But if the studs aren’t readily-pop-outable and I have to unbolt stuff I may go with bolt on.
 
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FSUZ33

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Donā€˜t want to remove two wheels just to look at the hubs, but if no one here chimes in I’ll do it and report back. I assume the majority of the crap under there is identical on all models.

Just popped in my head I’ll probably have to remove the brakes, or at least the rotors. Maybe wrong, but I think my Z33 Track rotors would wiggle off if you removed the brake pads. May not be able to do that with this one.

In other news: When I become president I’m imprisoning and confiscating the car of every Z owner that calls it a 400Z.
 
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papozalsa

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I did changed the wheels stud in my 370Z. However, the length of the studs will match the spacer thickness so nothing will rub. I do not remember removing the brakes. I believe the shield has a hole that you will align with the stub you are removing.
 

toki

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I have done only the rears on my RZ34. It is the same procedure as the Z34 in back, at least.
 
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I did them on my Nismo. The front hubs must be removed from the knuckle as there is no area to slip in an extended stud in from the back. The rear there is one spot where you can slip in and rotate the extended stud into place.
 
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FSUZ33

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I did them on my Nismo. The front hubs must be removed from the knuckle as there is no area to slip in an extended stud in from the back. The rear there is one spot where you can slip in and rotate the extended stud into place.
Loosen for space/access, or remove the hubs completely?
Bolted from the from back of the knuckle, no special tools or tricks needed?
 

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You will have the whole brake system off anyway so its easier just to remove the hub completely, install the studs on the bench and reinstall the hub. Yes, its bolted in from the back, if I remember correctly its just 4, 17mm bolts. Dont forget to remove the ABS sensor first.
 
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FSUZ33

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Would it help to knock the studs free, or at least partially, before removing the hub assy? Not sure how much force it takes to knock them out, and prefer not to be banging on 60 lbs of oddly shaped expensive gear on the bench.
 

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Yes, knock them out first, they are not in that tight and you can get the oem studs out with the hub still on the car. The aftermarket studs are usually a bit tighter fit. I put a dab of WD40 on the knurled ends to help them press in using an impact and a stud installation tool, get one they are cheap and work great.

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FSUZ33

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Yes, knock them out first, they are not in that tight and you can get the oem studs out with the hub still on the car. The aftermarket studs are usually a bit tighter fit. I put a dab of WD40 on the knurled ends to help them press in using an impact and a stud installation tool, get one they are cheap and work great.
10-4. Looking as the Lisle installation tool.
 

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Are you on OEM wheels with the Ext Studs and what thickness are the spacers?

Im reading the OEM lugnuts will bottom out with Ext Studs on 15mm spacers. I tried searching for open ended OE style lugnuts. So far, nothing showing up.
 
 






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