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Rear gear oil for LSD

Thefunk

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Amsoil SG 75W-110 is (or was?) very popular with the Evo 8/9/X crowds for the rear diff & xfer case. Those things take some serious launch abuse at the dragstrip though. A straight 90 weight gear oil was factory-fill (and what I always stuck with). Same goes for the S2k diff which was known to be made of glass (straight 90 factory-fill).

Since then, the SAE spec for 90 weight has changed so today's SAE 110 is more similar to the 90 of old.
So the weight of today's 90 is that of 110 of old? If you buy 7w90 it has the weight of 7w110?
 

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So the weight of today's 90 is that of 110 of old? If you buy 7w90 it has the weight of 7w110?
Reverse that, they thinned out the spec. A modern 75W-110 today is what a 75W-90 use to be.

The 75W-85 I run in my Jeeps (Redline and/or Amsoil) is basically a 70W-80 by historical standards.
 

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Reverse that, they thinned out the spec. A modern 75W-110 today is what a 75W-90 use to be.

The 75W-85 I run in my Jeeps (Redline and/or Amsoil) is basically a 70W-80 by historical standards.
I'd make an assumption that the viscosity standards are strict for marketing. How are they getting away with selling 90 weight as 110?
 

KrackaC8

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I'd make an assumption that the viscosity standards are strict for marketing. How are they getting away with selling 90 weight as 110?
SAE changed the specs to decrease viscosity and increase efficiency. No marketing, these are technical specifications. This impacted all gear oils regardless of brand. These specs are continually being revised as needed.
 

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For the handful of us that don't perv out over automotive lubricant specifications (no offense, you help others out, so You Do You Bru!) does the conventional vs synthetic note/spec in the manual for the LSD bear weight?

1792778166788-v7.webp
No offense taken! Both my wife & I are in the automotive fuels & lubricants industries. I've been a gear head since oiling my bike chain as a child.

They add that note to ensure the differential fluid has enough friction for the LSD clutches to function. This is why the quality synthetic gear lubes add a friction modifier. Win-win as you get the increased gear/bearing protection of a synthetic lube, but enough clutch disc friction for the LSD to function. The con? Higher costs...which mass production manufacturer bean counters actively avoid.
 
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For the handful of us that don't perv out over automotive lubricant specifications (no offense, you help others out, so You Do You Bru!) does the conventional vs synthetic note/spec in the manual for the LSD bear weight?

1792778166788-v7.webp
No it’s just marketing. Nissan essentially used the cheapest oil that they could get their hands on. That’s what it’s actually in there now non-synthetic… 80w-90 so just by going to synthetic alone is a complete upgrade where it’s 75w-90 or 80w-90 either or will work but it needs to be a performance brand like Amsoil redline Motul etc!! These are high quality performance brands. Their stuff will be packed with the right friction modifiers need it.
 
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No offense taken! Both my wife & I are in the automotive fuels & lubricants industries. I've been a gear head since oiling my bike chain as a child.

They add that note to ensure the differential fluid has enough friction for the LSD clutches to function. This is why the quality synthetic gear lubes add a friction modifier. Win-win as you get the increased gear/bearing protection of a synthetic lube, but enough clutch disc friction for the LSD to function. The con? Higher costs...which mass production manufacturer bean counters actively avoid.
Correct. A lot of people would just think that they can go to a store and grab some BS gear oil off the shelf.! this is why Nissan did what they did and that’s why it says what they say in the manual. But what we’re doing is 10 times different. We’re actually using good quality oil from a reputable manufacturer like Amsoil or red line etc. This isn’t your typical off the shelf retail item and they’re packed full of real friction modifiers not like going to AutoZone or something. You know what I mean.
 

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Changed oil at 700 miles after break-in on new diff, it seems like some guys are changing it often.. just had a little sludge on plug and it ran clear after about a 1/2-3/4 quart. Should I change it again soon, did another 1k miles on it
 
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Changed oil at 700 miles after break-in on new diff, it seems like some guys are changing it often.. just had a little sludge on plug and it ran clear after about a 1/2-3/4 quart. Should I change it again soon, did another 1k miles on it
No, you shouldn’t have to change it that often unless you’re racing the vehicle you’re taking it to the track but if you’re just on the street, just change it every so often they recommend 20,000 miles or two years. Is sufficient.
 

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FWIW, I cooked my LSD fluid during break-in (260 degrees or higher-didn't look soon enough) so I had the dealership change it out at 1650 miles. The part number on the work order was 999MP-1XGPP0P which is actually made by Pennzoil. Blackstone said the oil was dirty and had high iron content but was still within viscosity. I plan on switching to Redline soon thanks to the discussion here.

I guess Nissan decide not to repackage the Pennzoil. Here's a link:
https://parts.chapmannissan.com/parts/nissan-limited-slip-oil-differential-fluid-999mp1xgpp0p
 

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FWIW, I cooked my LSD fluid during break-in (260 degrees or higher-didn't look soon enough) so I had the dealership change it out at 1650 miles. The part number on the work order was 999MP-1XGPP0P which is actually made by Pennzoil. Blackstone said the oil was dirty and had high iron content but was still within viscosity. I plan on switching to Redline soon thanks to the discussion here.

I guess Nissan decide not to repackage the Pennzoil. Here's a link:
https://parts.chapmannissan.com/parts/nissan-limited-slip-oil-differential-fluid-999mp1xgpp0p
Here’s the japan version - no idea who makes it

IMG_2446.webp


IMG_2444.webp


IMG_2441.webp
 
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KrackaC8

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