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BLACK/BROWN CLUTCH FLUID!

AugustusCaesar

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Alright, let me start with saying how I have already had to get warranty work down in the way of replacing a failed fuel pump at only 5k km.

I'm now at 8k km.

I get my car back, fuel pump is replaced, issues are gone. I go under the hood to check oil, down a qaurt maybe. Halfway between full and empty after 6k km in the oil change, oil looks great, consumption to be expected.

Then I check the clutch fluid, and lo and behold it's black/brown.

Had this been my old 370z I would have assumed the CSC is about to fail. But Nissan has fixed/removed the CSC.

I did a pull and when shifting from 1st to second ground the gear. I'm assuming the clutch didn't fully disengage due to this now contaminated fluid.


What would cause this?
And what could fix this?

Also curious about the oil consumption. Only one oil change done, after break in at approximately 2k km. Now at just over 8k km.

I cannot go to the dealership, it's many hours away, they refuse to work weekends anymore (even though they did when my fuel pump needed replaced, I should mention I had the fuel pump issue since May and had made about 7 trips to the dealership) and winter is fast approaching my Northern British Columbian locale. Wo my car will be put away for winter the first week of October. As the snow usually flies not long after.
 

Mugzilla

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HOW did you check the fluid, and only get a bit of it? Siphon tube?

Step 1 is CALL THE DEALERSHIP AND VISIT THEM ASAP. Go full-Karen.

Since your post hamstrings us by saying you can't go to the dealership, you can do the following;

- Siphon some of the tranny fluid out.
- Find a reputable oil/fluid analysis place. (I use Blackstone Labs for my engine oil. No idea if they analyze tranny fluid.)
- Get report back that will tell you if there is babbit or contaminants in the oil.

If there IS contaminants or bearing material, you are going to the dealership anyways. Probably during a snowstorm, as it is fast approaching.
 
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AugustusCaesar

AugustusCaesar

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HOW did you check the fluid, and only get a bit of it? Siphon tube?

Step 1 is CALL THE DEALERSHIP AND VISIT THEM ASAP. Go full-Karen.

Since your post hamstrings us by saying you can't go to the dealership, you can do the following;

- Siphon some of the tranny fluid out.
- Find a reputable oil/fluid analysis place. (I use Blackstone Labs for my engine oil. No idea if they analyze tranny fluid.)
- Get report back that will tell you if there is babbit or contaminants in the oil.

If there IS contaminants or bearing material, you are going to the dealership anyways. Probably during a snowstorm, as it is fast approaching.

Clutch fluid, not transmission fluid.

This post doesn't hamstring YOU.
My circumstances hamstring ME.

I cannot go to the dealership until mid to late May next year. When the snow has melted enough to travel the highways. I'm 3 to 5 hours away from the nearest Nissan dealership.
 
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AugustusCaesar

AugustusCaesar

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HOW did you check the fluid, and only get a bit of it? Siphon tube?

Step 1 is CALL THE DEALERSHIP AND VISIT THEM ASAP. Go full-Karen.

Since your post hamstrings us by saying you can't go to the dealership, you can do the following;

- Siphon some of the tranny fluid out.
- Find a reputable oil/fluid analysis place. (I use Blackstone Labs for my engine oil. No idea if they analyze tranny fluid.)
- Get report back that will tell you if there is babbit or contaminants in the oil.

If there IS contaminants or bearing material, you are going to the dealership anyways. Probably during a snowstorm, as it is fast approaching.
My car will not see snow. It will be stored indoors until spring.
 

Mugzilla

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Clutch fluid, not transmission fluid.

This post doesn't hamstring YOU.
My circumstances hamstring ME.

I cannot go to the dealership until mid to late May next year. When the snow has melted enough to travel the highways. I'm 3 to 5 hours away from the nearest Nissan dealership.
Apologies. It hamstrings us because it limits our available options.

Apologies. I read "Clutch fluid", and my mind inserted tranny fluid.
 

thesilverbullet

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What is the car’s born on date? ā€˜23? fluid is dot4 and takes on water & becomes contaminated faster than dot3 - age matters Just as much as milage.

The 2nd gear grind is common and more than likely from the synchros. How does it shift for the other gears?

if the car is 2 going on 3, i would change the fluids. The brake fluid change as well - it’s probably past due or soon to be.
 
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AugustusCaesar

AugustusCaesar

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What is the car’s born on date? ā€˜23? fluid is dot4 and takes on water & becomes contaminated faster than dot3 - age matters Just as much as milage.

The 2nd gear grind is common and more than likely from the synchros. How does it shift for the other gears?

if the car is 2 going on 3, i would change the fluids. The brake fluid change as well - it’s probably past due or soon to be.
I bought it brand new in February. Didn't drive it until May. It is a 2024.

So if it's common should I be making a warranty claim against it?
 

trackratZ

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Alright, let me start with saying how I have already had to get warranty work down in the way of replacing a failed fuel pump at only 5k km.

I'm now at 8k km.

I get my car back, fuel pump is replaced, issues are gone. I go under the hood to check oil, down a qaurt maybe. Halfway between full and empty after 6k km in the oil change, oil looks great, consumption to be expected.

Then I check the clutch fluid, and lo and behold it's black/brown.

Had this been my old 370z I would have assumed the CSC is about to fail. But Nissan has fixed/removed the CSC.

I did a pull and when shifting from 1st to second ground the gear. I'm assuming the clutch didn't fully disengage due to this now contaminated fluid.


What would cause this?
And what could fix this?

Also curious about the oil consumption. Only one oil change done, after break in at approximately 2k km. Now at just over 8k km.

I cannot go to the dealership, it's many hours away, they refuse to work weekends anymore (even though they did when my fuel pump needed replaced, I should mention I had the fuel pump issue since May and had made about 7 trips to the dealership) and winter is fast approaching my Northern British Columbian locale. Wo my car will be put away for winter the first week of October. As the snow usually flies not long after.
Looks like your oil consumption is normal, as expected with the miles. Nissan improved the CSC by placing it outside the transmission. Go and check that, it's possible getting contamination or leaks, especially under your climate conditions. It's easy enough to replace that by your local indy shop after parts ordered, no need to travel to your dealer if you're very concerned. Otherwise just wait until roads are cleared. Keep us updated
 
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AugustusCaesar

AugustusCaesar

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Looks like your oil consumption is normal, as expected with the miles. Nissan improved the CSC by placing it outside the transmission. Go and check that, it's possible getting contamination or leaks, especially under your climate conditions. It's easy enough to replace that by your local indy shop after parts ordered, no need to travel to your dealer if you're very concerned. Otherwise just wait until roads are cleared. Keep us updated
Given the miles? You mean miles between the oil change? Or total miles? Cause my odometer only has 5,000 miles total.
 

trackratZ

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Given the miles? You mean miles between the oil change? Or total miles? Cause my odometer only has 5,000 miles total.
To be clear, how much has the oil level changed after your last oil change? If to the half mark after full to start then seems a bit excessive. Do the Blackstone analysis if so.
 

thesilverbullet

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I bought it brand new in February. Didn't drive it until May. It is a 2024.

So if it's common should I be making a warranty claim against it?
what is the assembly date? found on drive side door jam…
 

alienpoker

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You use decent DOT4 brake fluid. Do not use DOT3 or DOT 5 BTW. I wouldn’t let my dealership do it.

Definitely drain that brown crappy Nissan DOT4 & refill with MOTUL. Motul RBF600 is like $15 a bottle. Higher boiling point. Well known in the 360Z and Infinity G37 community for years.
You can either open the port on your slave and put a tube on it, then add fluid from the top. I use a vacuum brake bleeder at the slave end and add fluid until it runs clear. Or get someone to pump the clutch instead.

Here’s some posts and someone else’s how to:
Change your clutch fluid

It used to be the Clutch (350Z/370Z) was a CSC (internal to the tranny) which is way worse. Nissan fixed that on the RZ34. But good clutch fluid (DOT4 Brake fluid) is a must as it is hydrophilic (attracts/loves water) even from the humidity in the air. I owned a 370Z for >7yrs so I learned about this… if the dealer put in their clutch fluid, it was dirty & dark brown (cooked) in 10K miles or less.
 

alienpoker

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I'll let you know when I've finished work, and I'm back from the field. Apparently the VIN doesn't say when decoded.
If you start/download the App MYNissan, select vehicle & Vehicle Profile, it shows you your vin. You can also remotely lock & unlock the car, see service history, see a ā€˜health report’ yada yada, but you can’t start it (yet).

(BTW- edit: I misread your message, MYNissan doesn’t show build info. I’m off to buy some MOTUL DOT4 now- just to have it in the garage. Thanks for the reminder. šŸ™šŸ½
 
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