Anyone seen these hood risers & know how to get them down. Spun the Z on wet roads and caught back wheel on curb. These popped the hood open - can’t open or close hood

[Meg_Z]

Yeah, I've seen that kit a few times. What I'm getting at is its likely a ten cent resistor inside a fancy case that is connected to the male end of the plug to fit into the cars harness. If someone would be willing to take the case off it may likely make it easier and far cheaper for people looking to delete the hood pop system by just purchasing a few resistors from digikey, etc rather than paying $150~ usd for two ten cent resistors.

So you want to disable the pop ups to save $$$$ if they accidentally deploy, but don’t want to spend $150 dollars for something that’s already R&D and works? How much will time, effort and materials needed to fabricate a cheaper version cost compared to buying something that’s already available? To each their own.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

So you want to disable the pop ups to save $$$$ if they accidentally deploy, but don’t want to spend $150 dollars for something that’s already R&D and works? How much will time, effort and materials needed to fabricate a cheaper version cost compared to buying something that’s already available? To each their own.

If you would rather pay $150.00 for a resistor that is ten cents, go for it.

There isn't much time, effort, materials, fabrication, or R&D involved here. They are selling you a 10 cent resistor with a plug attached to it at a massive markup. This isn't something that is complex enough in design where quality or manufacturing materials would come into play; you are bridging a circuit with a resistor, its very basic.

 

[up4speed]

If you would rather pay $150.00 for a resistor that is ten cents, go for it.

There isn't much time, effort, materials, fabrication, or R&D involved here. They are selling you a 10 cent resistor with a plug attached to it at a massive markup. This isn't something that is complex enough in design where quality or manufacturing materials would come into play; you are bridging a circuit with a resistor, its very basic.

Where can you source the electrical plug? I'm sure they are available like all the other connectors on the car. It's just a matter of knowing the part#

 

[5amp5on]

When I had my 6 speed Z28 this is how we tricked the “skip shift” nonsense. Unplugged the harness from the transmission, plugged a 5 cent radio shack (yes I’m old) resister into the harness plug, wrapped in electrical tape and zip tied to transmission cable. Car would still think it was skip shifting, no codes thrown, much more enjoyable car. Like nocturnal said, we just need to know the correct resister.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

Where can you source the electrical plug? I'm sure they are available like all the other connectors on the car. It's just a matter of knowing the part#

Being that its a basic two pin, it shouldn't be that difficult to find male side that fits. I'm sure if you searched for an exact oem branded replacement you would pay way more than you had to, but any plug of the same dimension would likely work just fine.

If you really didn't care about 'presentation' you could just take the correct resistor and insert it into the cars wiring harness and tape the plug to secure it.

From a functional standpoint, the plug is entirely cosmetic.

 

[5amp5on]

Being that its a basic two pin, it shouldn't be that difficult to find male side that fits. I'm sure if you searched for an exact oem branded replacement you would pay way more than you had to, but any plug of the same dimension would likely work just fine.

If you really didn't care about 'presentation' you could just take the correct resistor and insert it into the cars wiring harness and tape the plug to secure it.

From a functional standpoint, the plug is entirely cosmetic.

This is what I plan on doing. Plug in resister, wrap in tape.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

When I had my 6 speed Z28 this is how we tricked the “skip shift” nonsense. Unplugged the harness from the transmission, plugged a 5 cent radio shack (yes I’m old) resister into the harness plug, wrapped in electrical tape and zip tied to transmission cable. Car would still think it was skip shifting, no codes thrown, much more enjoyable car. Like nocturnal said, we just need to know the correct resister.

Yeah, that's all this is. I most recently had to do this last year when I swapped my fwd Nissan 200sx with an SR20DET. The SR20DET's don't have an EGR valve, and the USDM SR20DE harness and ECU counterparts did, so that immediately caused a CEL. That is, until I put the resistor into the wiring harness plug.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

This is what I plan on doing. Plug in resister, wrap in tape.

Honestly I'm one of those guys that's big on presentation, so if I had the correct plug I'd probably go through the trouble of soldering the resistor to it, but given the fact that this is intentionally out of sight by design I'd be entirely fine with just inserting the resistor into the harness plug and securing it with tessa tape.

 

[5amp5on]

Honestly I'm one of those guys that's big on presentation, so if I had the correct plug I'd probably go through the trouble of soldering the resistor to it, but given the fact that this is intentionally out of sight by design I'd be entirely fine with just inserting the resistor into the harness plug and securing it with tessa tape.

yeah I would never do it on a visible item. I’m with you on that.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

A sidenote: Last night I took some time going through the FSM to see if there were any details on diagnosis/troubleshooting the hood pop system, but the only thing I could really come across was a diagnostic procedure in Consult, not any specific "probe with multi meter, if x value keep, if y replace"

If one of the people that bought the resistor kit would be kind enough to probe it with a multimeter that would set us on the right path, I'd be down to test on my car if I had a starting point.

@Marks25z any chance you'd be willing to take a multi meter to the hood pop delete you bought?

 

[Meg_Z]

If you would rather pay $150.00 for a resistor that is ten cents, go for it.

There isn't much time, effort, materials, fabrication, or R&D involved here. They are selling you a 10 cent resistor with a plug attached to it at a massive markup. This isn't something that is complex enough in design where quality or manufacturing materials would come into play; you are bridging a circuit with a resistor, its very basic.

Got it and good luck!

 

[bpeckham]

It seems like using a multimeter on the hood popper you remove would easily give you the resistance you need in Ohms.

For power, you can figure out which fuse is on the hood popper circuit and determine the max power that circuit can take using P (watts) = V (volts, approx 14) * I (amps, from fuse). If you buy a resistor at that power, it would be overkill, meaning the fuse would blow before you damaged the resistor.

 

[RadzShadow]

If you have the RZ34, the link posted earlier will show there is NO removal kit with the resistor and the carbon fiber covers.
So don't waste $200 on a part that doesn't work, when a $.10 resistor will work.
I honestly would like to see the pinouts on this and the ASE to the Bose subwoofer, so I can disconnect them both.

 

[up4speed]

If you have the RZ34, the link posted earlier will show there is NO removal kit with the resistor and the carbon fiber covers.
So don't waste $200 on a part that doesn't work, when a $.10 resistor will work.
I honestly would like to see the pinouts on this and the ASE to the Bose subwoofer, so I can disconnect them both.

If you are saying that the kit in this link doesn't work:
https://www.nengun.com/top-secret/g...32BWG0EpZn4SkOcG9GpcGDu87qGC3bL_o0-zNdADM1dgL

Then you are wrong. I ordered it, and it does in fact work. My poppers are unplugged, and I don't have an error light after plugging the pop up eliminators in. However, you may be correct that the carbon fiber covers don't work, because I didn't bother installing those, so I have no idea if they work or not. You also may be correct in saying that a $.10 resistor will work as well.
I opted to spring for the $138 +/- (I don't remember the exact#), just to have the simplicity of plug and play, and not having to worry about any compatibility issues.

 

[RadzShadow]