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FBD

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Can't believe we can't get blue on yellow. They really don't want us to have that Wolverine spec. Maybe, that's exclusively Mazda territory? (Yes, that was bad X2/RX8 joke).
Interesting. Just checked again this morning on mine which is Boulder Grey. In Canada they won't let us have the red accent interior just the black charcoal leather. *sniff sniff*
 

Raven1

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Donalex

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Thought Experiment: If Nissan Corp offered 1.9% on the new Z it wouldn't matter what the price was as much. They'd be financing their own price increase!
An artificially low rate from the manufacturer is used to move cars. That's not going to happen with this car...
 

Donalex

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This was very, very helpful. Thanks for this. I plan to put a wack down but I'm so busy I don't pay attention to how car loans are structured vs. mortgages. Awesome!
There are two different types of loans in regard to how interest is computed and paid.

Rule of 78's: usually for those with substandard credit and used primarily by lower tier subprime finance companies. You pay an exorbitant amount of interest and it's "front loaded", meaning you pay mainly interest first and it's difficult to trade early because you're not paying down principal until about the 2/3rd month of the loan term.

Simple interest: interest charges each month are based on a "declining balance", so the more principal you pay each month, the less amount of interest you pay over the term of the loan. These are car, mortgage, recreational, and unsecured loans for people with fair to excellent credit.

Don't get me started on credit card interest. Just to say, avoid exorbitant balances you're not able to payoff over 4-6 months. If you are going to make a major purchase, such as furniture, etc then get a simple interest unsecured loan at a Credit Union.
 

jezzza

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This was very, very helpful. Thanks for this. I plan to put a wack down but I'm so busy I don't pay attention to how car loans are structured vs. mortgages. Awesome!
Very interesting. Is finance through dealership that popular in US?

Majority of Australians have an offset account for their home mortgage which makes dealership (or 3rd party) finance less common. Interest rates are usually at least 5x those of home loans.
 

Eatonian49

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@McLovin157 are US dealers already starting to take down what people want to order? I've contacted mine (N. Carolina) and haven't heard anything back yet. Number 4 on their "list" for what it's worth.
 

Donalex

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Very interesting. Is finance through dealership that popular in US?
Yes, strictly because of convenience, especially if the manufacturer offers a "subvented" or sponsored rate such as 1.99% which is designed to move product (you HAVE to get the loan through the manufacturer's finance arm).

Now, here's where it gets sleazy. Say, you go to dealer and they get an approval from one of their lenders. In almost all cases, the dealer can mark up the rate as much as 3 to 4% and will keep about 75% of that extra interest profit, with the bank keeping the rest.

Some Credit Unions don't allow their network dealers to do that.

That's why it's VITAL to obtain financing before you go, and the dealer will accept a "sight draft", and they'll get paid when they prove to the bank the lien has been applied to the title of the car. A Credit Union usually has the lowest rates, and a vast majority have arrangements with local dealers.
 

McLovin157

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@McLovin157 are US dealers already starting to take down what people want to order? I've contacted mine (N. Carolina) and haven't heard anything back yet. Number 4 on their "list" for what it's worth.
I’ve been taking “orders” sense July of 2021. Now it’s up to the dealership you work with to treat you with honesty and integrity and get you what you want. So my biggest advice is get as much information as possible. Pricing is out so they should be able to give you very solid numbers for what they are selling the car for. Also like @Donalex said start with your own financing. There is a 99% chance there will be no special financing for the Z (most sports cars don’t). Get an idea of what you qualify for then see if it’s possible for a dealer to beat whatever financing you bring. If you can great you get a lower rate, if not you already know what you have.
 

Eatonian49

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I’ve been taking “orders” sense July of 2021. Now it’s up to the dealership you work with to treat you with honesty and integrity and get you what you want. So my biggest advice is get as much information as possible. Pricing is out so they should be able to give you very solid numbers for what they are selling the car for. Also like @Donalex said start with your own financing. There is a 99% chance there will be no special financing for the Z (most sports cars don’t). Get an idea of what you qualify for then see if it’s possible for a dealer to beat whatever financing you bring. If you can great you get a lower rate, if not you already know what you have.
Awesome thank you. The dealer I'm working with is one of the highest Z car selling ones in the state so they should be good. Just need to bug em more haha.
 

McLovin157

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Awesome thank you. The dealer I'm working with is one of the highest Z car selling ones in the state so they should be good. Just need to bug em more haha.
It’s all about trust, if you can’t trust them don’t do business with them. Otherwise enjoy the experience. I will say expect a slow first 1-3 months for the Z. Thing will slowly begin rolling as time goes on.
 

Eatonian49

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It’s all about trust, if you can’t trust them don’t do business with them. Otherwise enjoy the experience. I will say expect a slow first 1-3 months for the Z. Thing will slowly begin rolling as time goes on.
My trade-in won't really be ready until about November when I pay it off but I want to get ahead of the game if I can.

Also random question. In your experience do you get better value selling your car to a dealer vs trading it in at the time of sale? Or does it matter?
 

McLovin157

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My trade-in won't really be ready until about November when I pay it off but I want to get ahead of the game if I can.

Also random question. In your experience do you get better value selling your car to a dealer vs trading it in at the time of sale? Or does it matter?
You will always make more money private selling. If you have to due to time constraints as much as I hate it check carvana first. They pay stupid money for cars 80% of the time (hence they are hurried in thousands of cars). But hey it’s what’s best for you. Worst case scenario cavana gives you X for your car and the dealership can’t match. Sell your car to them and take the cash as a down payment.
 

Nice boat

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My trade-in won't really be ready until about November when I pay it off but I want to get ahead of the game if I can.

Also random question. In your experience do you get better value selling your car to a dealer vs trading it in at the time of sale? Or does it matter?
Most of the time selling to private parties will yield a better price compared to trade-ins, but for some states trading in a car could reduce the tax that you have to pay for the new car. Better first check if that applies to your state because this could save you 1-2k depending on what you are trading in.
 

Eatonian49

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You will always make more money private selling. If you have to due to time constraints as much as I hate it check carvana first. They pay stupid money for cars 80% of the time (hence they are hurried in thousands of cars). But hey it’s what’s best for you. Worst case scenario cavana gives you X for your car and the dealership can’t match. Sell your car to them and take the cash as a down payment.
My Challenger is valued around 30k according to KBB at the dealer and a little less for private. If I get ANYWHERE near that I'll be golden payment wise. Plus where I live it'll be a super easy turn around for them haha.

I also just prefer the convenience of the dealer. To this date (everything crossed) I've had great success with dealer interactions.

Edit: I'll check Carvana too for grins
Edit 2: 28k from them which is probably more realistic
 
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FBD

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Yes, strictly because of convenience, especially if the manufacturer offers a "subvented" or sponsored rate such as 1.99% which is designed to move product (you HAVE to get the loan through the manufacturer's finance arm).

Now, here's where it gets sleazy. Say, you go to dealer and they get an approval from one of their lenders. In almost all cases, the dealer can mark up the rate as much as 3 to 4% and will keep about 75% of that extra interest profit, with the bank keeping the rest.

Some Credit Unions don't allow their network dealers to do that.

That's why it's VITAL to obtain financing before you go, and the dealer will accept a "sight draft", and they'll get paid when they prove to the bank the lien has been applied to the title of the car. A Credit Union usually has the lowest rates, and a vast majority have arrangements with local dealers.
It is not really like that in Canada. Many times I have gone through VW financing (they own their own and are famous for it) or Nissan secures a guaranteed rate through a bank but procured through Nissan with their rates. Last time Nissan had a block deal for either 2.9% or 3.9% and it was with Servus Credit Union in Alberta. Incidentally although they are not a bank they just won bank of the year in Canada. lol.
 
 






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