noises coming from the rear

Thefunk

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This particular noise has been bugging me for months. At first I thought it was the struts since the strut thread rings were loose so I tightened them and the sound went away. Now it's back and I think it could be the lower control arm. When I tap the control arm it makes a very similar sound to what I'm hearing. You'll hear the sound in this video. Most prominent when going in reverse especially on uneven terrain.



I'm gonna get under there eventually but maybe someone has some insight.

 
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MattJ2020

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Can’t watch the video for some reason but have you got a normal link to it?

I get an irritation noise from the rear left, behind the passenger seat, I’m in Australia so I’m RHD like Japan, changing lanes driving over the reflectors or some road bumps, there’s a rattle. Like at the top of the strut or something but under all the interior parts.

There is a thread about something like this.
 
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Thefunk

Thefunk

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Can’t watch the video for some reason but have you got a normal link to it?

I get an irritation noise from the rear left, behind the passenger seat, I’m in Australia so I’m RHD like Japan, changing lanes driving over the reflectors or some road bumps, there’s a rattle. Like at the top of the strut or something but under all the interior parts.

There is a thread about something like this.
Strange, it plays for me. It's a webm file. So I don't get knocks/clicks/pops over bumps. What I get is a light click or tack noise when moving very slow like backing into my driveway. I hope it's not a bushing and just needs tightening. I do eventually want to replace those bucket-style lower control arms with regular bar arms and those have bushings already. The rear driver side is where the noise comes from and when I first got the car I did hit a nasty pothole on that side...
 

papozalsa

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I also have a rattle noise coming from the rear side passenger after installing the Z1 Coilovers when going thru rough areas and looks like the shock is bad too. I have not been able to record it.
 

VR30Infection

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Man, That’s a tough one. What’s the mod list in the rear? Could be rear springs in the spring buckets. Could be control arm bushing. Etc.
 
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Thefunk

Thefunk

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Man, That’s a tough one. What’s the mod list in the rear? Could be rear springs in the spring buckets. Could be control arm bushing. Etc.
The rear has true coilovers, upgraded stabilizer bars, and endlinks. The lower CA buckets are still there. I didn't redo the alignment after installing new wider wheels and tires, and the rear camber is more apparent visually now than it was before when I had the stock wheels and tires.

I think I should replace the camber arm buckets with regular ones. I was looking at these two but I don't know what the difference is between them.

https://conceptzperformance.com/nis...37-nissan-370z-2023-z-551a0-rllrz_p_76919.php

https://conceptzperformance.com/nis...initi-g37-nissan-23-z-551a0-rllz4_p_37673.php
 
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VR30Infection

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The rear has true coilovers, upgraded stabilizer bars, and endlinks. The lower CA buckets are still there. I didn't redo the alignment after installing new wider wheels and tires, and the rear camber is more apparent visually now than it was before when I had the stock wheels and tires.

I think I should replace the camber arm buckets with regular ones. I was looking at these two but I don't know what the difference is between them.

https://conceptzperformance.com/nis...37-nissan-370z-2023-z-551a0-rllrz_p_76919.php

https://conceptzperformance.com/nis...initi-g37-nissan-23-z-551a0-rllz4_p_37673.php
1. To replace the spring buckets with new arms, you want Toe arms, not camber arms. Good idea to replace all three bars, but the toe arms are the ones that have the spring buckets.


2. Does the springs on your coilovers have some preload or was ride height set with the springs preload adjustment? That sound could be the spring on one or both of the coilovers. They are easy to have set wrong. Also double check both of the lock collars on each coilover to make sure they are tight.

3. Check the lock ring on the adjustable end links.

4. When it comes to the two different styles of rear link by Nismo or SPL (they are both made by SPL) it is just a different design and won’t really make a difference. Just depends on how deep your pockets are coupled with how fancy you want to be.

All of the things that can be causing this noise are really easy to put hands on with a jack and a couple of jack stands. I’m confident you will find the issue quick. Good luck. I would start with the coilover setup because this is a common issue on a double adjustable design. It is hard to get the lock rings set in place well. I had an MR2 with them and the sway bar mount were part of the lock ring setup. The lock ring came loose under hard cornering and caused the sway bar to move and make contact with the inside of the tire. It was terrible. I ended up staking the lock ring with a flat head and a hammer so they wouldn’t move on me.

Oh, and bad alignment wouldn’t cause these noises. Though you should get it aligned, I would get the other bars and figure out the noise and then get it aligned so you don’t end up double paying.

Hope this all helps.
 
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Thefunk

Thefunk

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1. Gotcha thanks for clearing that up. I never thought to check the toe arm instructions from z1 which clearly shows which part gets replaced.

2. I have swift springs which came preloaded on the struts. I only dropped my ride height 3/4" because I wasn't sure how low I could go without adjustable arms.

3. Lock rings came loose after about 100mi after install. They're tight now and have been since.

4. Yeah I don't think I'll need super fine adjustment for camber so the regular camber arms will do.

It drives me nuts when I don't know what is making a sound or don't know how find where but after seeing people use pry bars I kinda have an idea now. I was at the shop this morning and they checked everything while the car was on a life and couldn't reproduce the sound but once it was on the ground it did it again. They told me not to worry about it.
 
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Thefunk

Thefunk

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Another time I hear the sound is when I get in/out of the car, if I open the door and the car shakes a little.
 
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Thefunk

Thefunk

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Do you have aftermarket exhaust? Could be rubbing on heat shield or something.
I do but this particular sound existed before installing the exhaust. The day I had the exhaust installed, I mentioned the click sound and we noticed one of the rings on the strut was loose and we were able to rotate the strut by hand and it had more play than it should. They tightened all the rings and also lubed all the joints and bushings. Car was silent for a few weeks then the click returned and also a squeak over bumps while in motion.
 

VR30Infection

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What a pain! The fact that it can happen when you get in and out of the car makes me think coilovers. I hope you find it.
 
 






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