New Owner, questions for the experts.

[KrackaC8]

2. Intake: Small HP gains here. RZ34 Intakes run straight down into your turbo's so there's some things to consider. Avoid oiled intakes like K&N. Open box designs make the most power (AMS 80mm and Boosted6) and offer up some awesome turbo swooshes when under load. Closed box designs don't get the swoosh (unless you open the tops) but many report the open/ram air designs cause rough idling and can proc codes as the MAF sensor is exposed to both fly by debris and errant vibrations. Closed box intakes make: bit less power/MAF happier/dampens turbo sounds. Why buy an RZ34 intake at all? The sound bra cuz the butt dino calls BS.

4. (a) Heat exchanger: The best mod for your turbo car. Get it. Many say "the cheaper the better." I personally like Mishimoto because you retain the stock rock guard and lifetime warranty covers physical damage. (Yes really!) AMS is always primo but I have it on good authority that it's the same as the PLM for twice the price. (Those welds look sloppy on the PLM's but I dunno...)


5. I've had a bad experience with my old 370z running just lowering springs. Many advise coils. RZ34 has divorced springs and struts in the rear so that's possibly a fail worth fixing. I want air. Interestingly, many DD's report not loving coilovers on the RZ34 platform... Can't speak to it yet. I honestly like the floaty stock ride. Almost seems like bushings and sways may be the way to go.

A few thoughts on your points (bolded above):
2. Open filters w/o boxes are sucking in hot engine bay air when the hood is shut. The impressive power gains are typically seen when the hood is open (fresh air) strapped to a dyno. This further stresses an already limited heat exchanger/intercooler cooling system.
4. You hit on the exact reasons I decided on the Mishimoto heat exchanger!
5. Very happy with my current suspension setup of stock springs w/aftermarket swaybars & braces. I originally bought a set of Eibach lower springs to go with it, but opted to stay on stock springs and sell the Eibachs (ground clearance & a nicer ride).

 

[SleepyD7]

2. Open filters w/o boxes are sucking in hot engine bay air when the hood is shut. The impressive power gains are typically seen when the hood is open (fresh air) strapped to a dyno. This further stresses an already limited heat exchanger/intercooler cooling system.

This makes perfect sense actually

 

[HoneybadgerPSZ]

Another FL man here: I've been haunting this forum for a minute and researching aftermarket parts for about a year. (I just nabbed a 2024 Performance myself.) Here's a summary of what I've learned here.

1. Down pipes: Big HP/TQ/DB gains. Your RZ34 has Upper and Lower down pipes each with a set of cats. Most power is made with the highly restrictive LDP's. UDP's are infamous for being crazy difficult to remove; UDP's will net you both a bit more power and some stinky black smoke on cold starts and pulls.

Your S-Type Borla is marketed as one of the quietest offerings on the market. Sounds like that 70 yr old man disagreed. All AMS/Fast Intentions/MAP/Boosted6/Etc DP's are compatible with your Borla catback. Get em' catted or run dem dawgs. (Hey it's FL!)

2. Intake: Small HP gains here. RZ34 Intakes run straight down into your turbo's so there's some things to consider. Avoid oiled intakes like K&N. Open box designs make the most power (AMS 80mm and Boosted6) and offer up some awesome turbo swooshes when under load. Closed box designs don't get the swoosh (unless you open the tops) but many report the open/ram air designs cause rough idling and can proc codes as the MAF sensor is exposed to both fly by debris and errant vibrations. Closed box intakes make: bit less power/MAF happier/dampens turbo sounds. Why buy an RZ34 intake at all? The sound bra cuz the butt dino calls BS.

3. Tune: (1) Best case IMO: Find a reputable local Nissan Motorsports shop with a dyno. There are many in FL. (2) If you want the convenience of a remote tuner then go Sonic. (3) I don't love Z1 but I'm sure their tuner work is fine. (4) Check out a Hot Box if you want fast/cheap power with the convenience of super fast install/removal if you like your new car warranty. (Your new car warranty is awful btw and Nissan dealership's are... well... if you dunno... you'll see.)

4. (a) Heat exchanger: The best mod for your turbo car. Get it. Many say "the cheaper the better." I personally like Mishimoto because you retain the stock rock guard and lifetime warranty covers physical damage. (Yes really!) AMS is always primo but I have it on good authority that it's the same as the PLM for twice the price. (Those welds look sloppy on the PLM's but I dunno...)

4. (b) Air-to-water Intercooler upgrades: A very nice mod for higher HP cars. Mishimoto has a medium size pair for $1.8K and AMS has a bigger set for $2.4K. Both are very well reviewed products. Z1 has a fancy air-to-air intercooler if you don't mind cutting your subframe and replacing a state of the art cooling system with a 1992 ram air solution.

5. I've had a bad experience with my old 370z running just lowering springs. Many advise coils. RZ34 has divorced springs and struts in the rear so that's possibly a fail worth fixing. I want air. Interestingly, many DD's report not loving coilovers on the RZ34 platform... Can't speak to it yet. I honestly like the floaty stock ride. Almost seems like bushings and sways may be the way to go.

Does the pipe diameter of the lower downpipe need to match my 2.5" super quiet Old man Borla exhaust? I think the catted AMS's are 3". Based on what I have seen the factory UDP and LDP are all over the place on diameters. Since you are a Florida guy, Tuners in North Florida? I'm in St Augustine.

 

[KrackaC8]

Does the pipe diameter of the lower downpipe need to match my 2.5" super quiet Old man Borla exhaust? I think the catted AMS's are 3". Based on what I have seen the factory UDP and LDP are all over the place on diameters. Since you are a Florida guy, Tuners in North Florida? I'm in St Augustine.

Correct on the AMS downpipes being 3.0", which is also where most the industry is now sizing their downpipes as well. 2.5" is becoming tougher to find (I believe eBay, CZP, & HKS are among the few). Can do you 3.0 --> 2.5? Absolutely; plenty do! Is it ideal? Not really... You now have a half inch steel lip that your exhaust is slamming into causing turbulence. Most people wouldn't care, but when modding I'm looking for as much efficiency as possible, and smooth airflow/exhaust flow is typically (not always - throttle bodies are a good example of the exception to the rule) the most efficient.

Being in Florida, I also wouldn't bother with catted LDPs and either go with straight or resonated as the secondary cats are not monitored and won't cause a CEL when removed. If you're talking full downpipes, that is a different story.

 

[KrackaC8]

In addition to the eBay ones I linked earlier, here are CZP's 2.5" offerings:
resonated - https://conceptzperformance.com/ppe...-q50-q60-30t-vr30ddtt-b0802-xd210_p_59561.php
straight - https://conceptzperformance.com/ppe...-q50-q60-30t-vr30ddtt-b0802-xd200_p_29429.php

 

[SleepyD7]

For a reputable tuner with a dyno in NCFlorida-ish: hit up ZFever aka Fever Racing in Tampa. Those dudes fabricate GTR engine swaps and have seen it all. And in Orlando there’s Circuit Motorsports. I’m in Gainesville so we are not far apart.

 

[HoneybadgerPSZ]

In addition to the eBay ones I linked earlier, here are CZP's 2.5" offerings:
resonated - https://conceptzperformance.com/ppe...-q50-q60-30t-vr30ddtt-b0802-xd210_p_59561.php
straight - https://conceptzperformance.com/ppe...-q50-q60-30t-vr30ddtt-b0802-xd200_p_29429.php

Thanks - appreciate the info. With resonated and removal of the secondary cats you won't get a CEL? What about the smell in the car? Assume it would only be noticeable at extended sits at stop lights? And its not a smell that I mind at all being an old muscle car guy.

 

[KrackaC8]

Thanks - appreciate the info. With resonated and removal of the secondary cats you won't get a CEL? What about the smell in the car? Assume it would only be noticeable at extended sits at stop lights? And its not a smell that I mind at all being an old muscle car guy.

Correct, no CEL as the secondary cats are not monitored by the ECU. No catless smell either since the primaries remain in place. I rarely even smell "exhaust" when idling in my garage. I'm definitely familiar with what you mean though...been modding turbo & V8 cars for over 25 years and many of which were catless back when I was younger!

 

[VR30Infection]

Downpipes like the MAPerformance full high flow catted will support more power than you’re after and they are 3” but transition smoothly down to 2.5” for a clean transition to your exhaust. Having a high flow cat will help with drone issues that could be there with full race versions.
As far as a tune is concerned, Ecutek for the win. Seb @ Specialty Z is outstanding at pushing limits without compromising engine health.
Congrats on the Z! Have fun!

 

[KrackaC8]

Downpipes like the MAPerformance full high flow catted will support more power than you’re after and they are 3” but transition smoothly down to 2.5” for a clean transition to your exhaust. Having a high flow cat will help with drone issues that could be there with full race versions.
As far as a tune is concerned, Ecutek for the win. Seb @ Specialty Z is outstanding at pushing limits without compromising engine health.
Congrats on the Z! Have fun!

Interesting design; I like it.
https://www.maperformance.com/produ...Cs2J_mti3LtsbZvaPWGqPtIfABQNg7eRoCeisQAvD_BwE

 

[Bumflik]

Seb of Specialty Z is the best. Love his quality analysis and laser focus detail.

 

[VR30Infection]

Seb of Specialty Z is the best. Love his quality analysis and laser focus detail.

Absolutely! He’s not in it for his ego. He’s in it for his customer and for the health of your engine!

 

[Bumflik]

I really appreciate his attention to detail. He teaches and gives instruction like a professor or Sensei. He and the Guy from MotoIQ.

 

[HoneybadgerPSZ]

Ok I started pulling the trigger and buying some items. AWS Cold air ordered today and I am between these two downpipes.

PPE Engineering CZP by PPE Stainless Steel Lower Downpipes, 2.5" Resonated - Nissan Z / Infiniti Q50, Q60 3.0t VR30DDTT B0802-XD210 33006-BN001 400Z ppeB0802-XD214 ppeB0802-XD211 ppe208B2-XD200 VR30DDTTEXHAUSTRZ34 VQ35VR30EXHAUSTQ50 Q60VR30EXHAUSTS - Concept Z Performance

or

MAPerformance Downpipes | 2023+ Nissan Z 3.0TT & 2016-2024 Infiniti Q5

One with high flow cats and the other resonated. Since my Borla is 2.5" I have less choices.

Any thoughts?

 

[KrackaC8]

Ok I started pulling the trigger and buying some items. AWS Cold air ordered today and I am between these two downpipes.

PPE Engineering CZP by PPE Stainless Steel Lower Downpipes, 2.5" Resonated - Nissan Z / Infiniti Q50, Q60 3.0t VR30DDTT B0802-XD210 33006-BN001 400Z ppeB0802-XD214 ppeB0802-XD211 ppe208B2-XD200 VR30DDTTEXHAUSTRZ34 VQ35VR30EXHAUSTQ50 Q60VR30EXHAUSTS - Concept Z Performance

or

MAPerformance Downpipes | 2023+ Nissan Z 3.0TT & 2016-2024 Infiniti Q5

One with high flow cats and the other resonated. Since my Borla is 2.5" I have less choices.

Any thoughts?

Do you want full downpipes or just lowers? The answer truly comes down to that question. The install for full is much more intensive. DIY or shop?

For a fun bolt-on street car, I'd just go with the resonated lowers unless you chasing every last horsepower and want the biggest dyno numbers possible.

If you order the CZPs, I'd suggest selecting for one of their optional ceramic heat coatings.