Lifting the Z (or any vehicle with pinch-welds)

[Madgud]

Agreed and I don't want to be the guinea pig

I hope that A is viable as I feel it would be a more stable lift. I am fine doing B for now though but my blocks are getting indents in them. Better the blocks getting indented than the metal pinch welds bending so I am fine with it.

I personally will never use method A. I'm too afraid of bending that pinch weld.

I too use a Quickjack to lift the Z up, and I've gotten myself a pair of slotted rubber pad to put on top of the Quickjack provided high blocks.
Here are the ones I got, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3648579...-9f10-06ccc1828d9d|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage

the grove is the perfect depth so that the pinch weld just touches the bottom of the groove. The flat part of the pad then rests on the reinforced part of the frame that sits just on the inside of the pinch weld. There is a void on the outside of the pinch weld (you can feel it if you press on the plastic side skirt with your hand), therefore the pad will push the plastic side skirt up slightly by about 5mm. Being soft plastic, it will bend and bounce back once the car is lowered again. It doesn't get damaged as it's not being pushed up that much.

Think of it that way, cars that do have a pinch weld almost always come with slotted scissor jacks, so that they get lifted from the area surrounding the pinch weld.

 

[ZillaZ]

I personally will never use method A. I'm too afraid of bending that pinch weld.

I too use a Quickjack to lift the Z up, and I've gotten myself a pair of slotted rubber pad to put on top of the Quickjack provided high blocks.
Here are the ones I got, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364857947063?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=777008&algo=PERSONAL.TOPIC&ao=1&asc=20240723115851&meid=7504bd8cfd784278970530f869554167&pid=101952&rk=1&rkt=1&mehot=none&itm=364857947063&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=4375194&algv=WatchlistVariantWithMLR_BP&brand=Unbranded&_trksid=p4375194.c101952.m162921&_trkparms=parentrq:b8ca0bfa1920a575fdbe6bf1ffffa3c8|pageci:68014b52-9124-11ef-9f10-06ccc1828d9d|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage

the grove is the perfect depth so that the pinch weld just touches the bottom of the groove. The flat part of the pad then rests on the reinforced part of the frame that sits just on the inside of the pinch weld. There is a void on the outside of the pinch weld (you can feel it if you press on the plastic side skirt with your hand), therefore the pad will push the plastic side skirt up slightly by about 5mm. Being soft plastic, it will bend and bounce back once the car is lowered again. It doesn't get damaged as it's not being pushed up that much.

Think of it that way, cars that do have a pinch weld almost always come with slotted scissor jacks, so that they get lifted from the area surrounding the pinch weld.

Awesome thank you for that. It's definitely the depth of the QJ pinch-weld blocks that scare me. I was going to look at the scissor-jack and see how deep that one was too but looks like you found a good solution here.

 

[thesilverbullet]

The pinch weld is just a locator and notch to keep the jack in position. It’s not intended to lift / support the vehicle. There is a pad on the inside of the pinch weld that is lower than the outside area of the pinch. The pad is the area for lifting and since the pad is lower the jack or jack stand does not touch the plastic trim on the outside of the pinch weld. So you need for the notch in the lift to be deep enough to clear the pinch weld.

Grab your oem jack and you see how this works or you can watch the video…

 

[thesilverbullet]

Here is pic of the lifting pad

 

[RobotAZ]

I would say just use the jack point in the middle of the car, but I believe the stupid plastic shroud is covering it. I could be wrong. I just drove mine up on ramps to change the oil, which is not at all preferred. I need to figure out what I’m doing with the low profile floor jack and lift it up to rest on my 12” race blocks.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

I would say just use the jack point in the middle of the car, but I believe the stupid plastic shroud is covering it. I could be wrong. I just drove mine up on ramps to change the oil, which is not at all preferred. I need to figure out what I’m doing with the low profile floor jack and lift it up to rest on my 12” race blocks.

When you look underneath the Z from the front. You will see a metal nipple. That's where you jack it up. I drive up on two 2x4s stacked under 1 wheel and drive on it. Or, jack front corner pinch weld and get the tire off the ground to slide the 2x4s under the tire. This will give you enough clearance to slide the jack from the front to reach the nipple.

EDIT: If you have 2 floor jacks, you can skip the 2x4 method

 

[ZillaZ]

I did end up getting some race ramps and they work great! Even with the air dam's in front of the wheels and the chin spoiler on the performance. Unless I need the Z up on all four's I will just use them from now on.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

@ZillaZ
Got pics of the ramps?
I am debating to get ramps, so Im not use poor mans ramps (2x4) lol

 

[ZillaZ]

@ZillaZ
Got pics of the ramps?
I am debating to get ramps, so Im not use poor mans ramps (2x4) lol

Here are the ones I got. They have them with different dimensions and weight capacity.

https://www.raceramps.com/ramps/race/p/rr-xt-2-hd/

Cheaper on Amazon... $499

So kind of expensive but worth it IMO. I am very surprised at how light they are. And since they come apart they are easy to store on a shelf in my garage.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

Here are the ones I got. They have them with different dimensions and weight capacity.

https://www.raceramps.com/ramps/race/p/rr-xt-2-hd/

Cheaper on Amazon... $499

So kind of expensive but worth it IMO. I am very surprised at how light they are. And since they come apart they are easy to store on a shelf in my garage.

Nice. I keep seeing them pop up on social media. I'll stick with my poor mans ramp lol

 

[Thefunk]

For those with low Z's how do you jack the car up with a low profile jack? I have to use a regular jack to lift one side enough to get the bigger LP jack under the front of the car to the center jack point.

 

[johnnieg]

That makes sense thanks.

I am using my QuickJacks so I am lifting the entire car up into the air at the 4 points every time I do this. So the weight shouldn't be as much at each lift point but what you are saying here makes me think I should continue with diagram B.

 

[johnnieg]

That makes sense thanks.

I am using my QuickJacks so I am lifting the entire car up into the air at the 4 points every time I do this. So the weight shouldn't be as much at each lift point but what you are saying here makes me think I should continue with diagram B.

I am curious what model are you using i have the 7000TLX that were perfect for my C8 and are too long for the Z .. They fit between the wheels but lifting points are way off .. i had to turn them sideways to use them what a pain in the ass! So i am thinking about unloading these and picking up the quick jacks that actually fit.. Thanks

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

For those with low Z's how do you jack the car up with a low profile jack? I have to use a regular jack to lift one side enough to get the bigger LP jack under the front of the car to the center jack point.

I drive on two 2x4s nailed together. Drive on one tire and it clears my LP jack to lift the front end

 

[ZillaZ]

I am curious what model are you using i have the 7000TLX that were perfect for my C8 and are too long for the Z .. They fit between the wheels but lifting points are way off .. i had to turn them sideways to use them what a pain in the ass! So i am thinking about unloading these and picking up the quick jacks that actually fit.. Thanks

I have the 5000 SLX. Worked great on my C5 Corvettes and they do like up on the Z underneath so you don't have to go across the car.