Gas Pedal

[MRSocal]

Hello,
Just bought my 2025 Z Performance last month and I'm enjoying it very much driving it about 400 miles so far. However, I have one concern: Acceleration from a stop seems sluggish and the gas pedal seems heavy and not responsive. The gas pedal has what looks like blue cover/wrap on it. Is that normal?
Your Thoughts please.
Thanks!

 

[thesilverbullet]

you should remove the blue protective film

you should also take it easy during the recommended 1200 mile break-in period.

 

[ill-legal?]

Hello,
Just bought my 2025 Z Performance last month and I'm enjoying it very much driving it about 400 miles so far. However, I have one concern: Acceleration from a stop seems sluggish and the gas pedal seems heavy and not responsive. The gas pedal has what looks like blue cover/wrap on it. Is that normal?
Your Thoughts please.
Thanks!

Owner's manual recommends not winding up RPM's over 4k during the first 1200 miles, and one of the more well-known tuners recommends not going over 3k rpm's until your oil temps is up to 170 degrees...so I always take it easy for the first 7-10 minutes of driving until everything is up to temp just to be on the safe side.

The blue film is how all cars ship to the dealers, it's only purpose is to keep the pedal clean until the new owner takes it home, definitely peel it off and toss it.

Is your Z a manual or automatic?

 

[MRSocal]

Owner's manual recommends not winding up RPM's over 4k during the first 1200 miles, and one of the more well-known tuners recommends not going over 3k rpm's until your oil temps is up to 170 degrees...so I always take it easy for the first 7-10 minutes of driving until everything is up to temp just to be on the safe side.

The blue film is how all cars ship to the dealers, it's only purpose is to keep the pedal clean until the new owner takes it home, definitely peel it off and toss it.

Is your Z a manual or automatic?

It's automatic. Thanks for your input.

 

[MRSocal]

you should remove the blue protective film

you should also take it easy during the recommended 1200 mile break-in period.

Will do. Thanks.

 

[MRSocal]

Will do. Thanks.

So the sluggish acceleration and heavy gas pedal should not be a concern?

 

[ill-legal?]

Have you switched between driving modes for your transmission? I have read some people state that the "normal" driving mode is a little underwhelming to say the least.

Can you elaborate a little more on how it's sluggish? Once your car shifts out of first does it feel normal again? Is it intermittent or is that how it feels all the time? I assume you're not seeing a CEL or any warning lights? I had some issues a week back with some weak or sluggish acceleration, and the general consensus was that the excessive heat (I'm in AZ) and high intake charge air temps due stop and go driving may have been a significant factor. It's been said that the VR30 is more prone to heatsoak...

Personally, I'm considering upgrading my heat exchanger and maybe adding an oil cooler because the summer temps where I'm at are so high.

 

[MRSocal]

Have you switched between driving modes for your transmission? I have read some people state that the "normal" driving mode is a little underwhelming to say the least.

Can you elaborate a little more on how it's sluggish? Once your car shifts out of first does it feel normal again? Is it intermittent or is that how it feels all the time? I assume you're not seeing a CEL or any warning lights? I had some issues a week back with some weak or sluggish acceleration, and the general consensus was that the excessive heat (I'm in AZ) and high intake charge air temps due stop and go driving may have been a significant factor. It's been said that the VR30 is more prone to heatsoak...

Personally, I'm considering upgrading my heat exchanger and maybe adding an oil cooler because the summer temps where I'm at are so high.

I switched between normal and sport mode but I don't feel any difference and there is no CEL or warning lights.
The sluggish feeling is when I press the gas pedal at a stop to accelerate. I hear the gurgling sound of the engine/exhaust but acceleration feels heavy and slow. I wonder if it has to do with how my foot is positioned on the gas pedal. I don't feel it as much when cruising on high speed. In fact I get pleasantly surprised when I slightly push it at 70 miles an hour then find myself suddenly at 90 miles an hour.
I may also still comparing it to my 1986 and 1989 300ZX smooth acceleration. Hopefully it will improve after the break-in period.
Thank you

 

[GCZ]

The one reason my wife hates our Z is the accelerator pedal. For some reason they decided to floor hinge it and make it super long with an awkward fulcrum position. It's fine for me... but my wife's feet are tiny and with her heel resting on the floor, it requires significantly more force to push which she struggles with.

 

[FSUZ33]

The sluggish feeling is when I press the gas pedal at a stop to accelerate. I hear the gurgling sound of the engine/exhaust but acceleration feels heavy and slow.

This sounds a little suspect to me.
Is it the same whether the engine/drivetrain is cold or hot?

My opinion:
1. Best on flat pavement…apply normal throttle and watch the gear changes to make sure it’s shifting normally, around the same RPM. With consistent throttle pressure you should feel it pulling relatively the same in each gear.

2. Watch the downshifts at lights. if it hasn’t already by the time you stop, it should go down to 1st within a second or two after you’re stationary.

3. Try it in manual mode, normal launches in 1st to see if there‘s any difference. Then, normal launches, shifting into 2nd, then 3rd around 2000-2500 RPM.

4. Check your air intake boxes. The idiots at the dealership may have stowed all the parts they were supposed to install on your car in there.
That one was a joke…sort of.

This sounds like when people install new air filters with the cellophane bag still on them. Because you’re seeing normal/expected accelleration at speed in higher gears is interesting. If it’s at all questionable to you, I suggest a dealership visit.

 

[itszed]

This sounds a little suspect to me.
Is it the same whether the engine/drivetrain is cold or hot?

My opinion:
1. Best on flat pavement…apply normal throttle and watch the gear changes to make sure it’s shifting normally, around the same RPM. With consistent throttle pressure you should feel it pulling relatively the same in each gear.

2. Watch the downshifts at lights. if it hasn’t already by the time you stop, it should go down to 1st within a second or two after you’re stationary.

3. Try it in manual mode, normal launches in 1st to see if there‘s any difference. Then, normal launches, shifting into 2nd, then 3rd around 2000-2500 RPM.

4. Check your air intake boxes. The idiots at the dealership may have stowed all the parts they were supposed to install on your car in there.
That one was a joke…sort of.

This sounds like when people install new air filters with the cellophane bag still on them. Because you’re seeing normal/expected accelleration at speed in higher gears is interesting. If it’s at all questionable to you, I suggest a dealership visit.

Okay, I was going to keep quiet about this but, I was showing the car to a neighbour, and fellow car fan. He had a 350Z a few years ago and was curious to look at the engine. This is the part I'm a bit embarrassed about - I had looked extensively at the engine of one of the cars that I tested, and had not, to that point, popped the hood on my own car. To my surprise, the cover for the battery compartment was off and wedged near the front passenger side of the engine compartment, thankfully no damage to the car or the cover, but disaster was lurking nearby. So, take what FSUZ33 says in jest seriously and look at your filters or whatever you can see under the hood, because one never knows what the person setting the car up for delivery forgot to do...

 

[ForSale24]

This sounds a little suspect to me.
Is it the same whether the engine/drivetrain is cold or hot?

My opinion:
1. Best on flat pavement…apply normal throttle and watch the gear changes to make sure it’s shifting normally, around the same RPM. With consistent throttle pressure you should feel it pulling relatively the same in each gear.

2. Watch the downshifts at lights. if it hasn’t already by the time you stop, it should go down to 1st within a second or two after you’re stationary.

3. Try it in manual mode, normal launches in 1st to see if there‘s any difference. Then, normal launches, shifting into 2nd, then 3rd around 2000-2500 RPM.

4. Check your air intake boxes. The idiots at the dealership may have stowed all the parts they were supposed to install on your car in there.
That one was a joke…sort of.

This sounds like when people install new air filters with the cellophane bag still on them. Because you’re seeing normal/expected accelleration at speed in higher gears is interesting. If it’s at all questionable to you, I suggest a dealership visit.

Toyota gave a GR86 to a journalist to test drive and forgot to remove the 'shipping" springs on the suspension. The tester drive the car with clamps holding the springs on all four corners. Bad review, but Toyota admitted the mistake. Don't think Nissan is above this kinda error too

 

[FSUZ33]

Watched a video last week of a guy putting coilovers on his 370 NISMO. Recent video, and not sure of the mileage on the car, but the suspension was filthy. Like junkyard ‘92 Corolla filthy. He jacked it up and it still had the shipping spacers in the springs. It’s on the dealers, but hidden things that could affect safety or the car in general, should be flagged or something…picturing the REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT flags on aircraft.

 

[MRSocal]

This sounds a little suspect to me.
Is it the same whether the engine/drivetrain is cold or hot?

My opinion:
1. Best on flat pavement…apply normal throttle and watch the gear changes to make sure it’s shifting normally, around the same RPM. With consistent throttle pressure you should feel it pulling relatively the same in each gear.

2. Watch the downshifts at lights. if it hasn’t already by the time you stop, it should go down to 1st within a second or two after you’re stationary.

3. Try it in manual mode, normal launches in 1st to see if there‘s any difference. Then, normal launches, shifting into 2nd, then 3rd around 2000-2500 RPM.

4. Check your air intake boxes. The idiots at the dealership may have stowed all the parts they were supposed to install on your car in there.
That one was a joke…sort of.

This sounds like when people install new air filters with the cellophane bag still on them. Because you’re seeing normal/expected accelleration at speed in higher gears is interesting. If it’s at all questionable to you, I suggest a dealership visit.

I'll try your suggestions above and report back.
Thank you

 

[MRSocal]

I'll try your suggestions above and report back.
Thank you

I tried the above suggestions including changing oil myself at 2500 miles and checking the air filters compartments. Everything looked fine. It now has 3500 miles and I still feels the sluggish acceleration.
I also noticed the long accelerator pedal and I often have to reposition my foot for more pressure.

I think my concern is becausw it's a twin turbo I was expecting similar smooth acceleration like the 300zx turbo which was very smooth. My Z got more power of course but not as smooth acceleration as the 300zx turbo. I think this has to do with the 2025 Z has a different type of engine and turbo. I'll what the dealer says at the next oil change.