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Break-in period

Nurburg_beast

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Thank you all for the replies! Yeah I was also considering just taking a longer route and lengthening my trip to work. Looks like that is the right way to go!
 

takemorepills

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Remember, an engine is basically a compressor. Any moisture in the air it sucks in is condensed by the pistons, and either goes past the piston rings or the exhaust.
Once everything is nice and hot, the moisture will find it's way out.

Like Bumflik said, go the long way around and even do at least one good WOT run to get everything well past "up to temp".

The VR30 is a good engine, treat it right and it will last a good long time
 

CPerdomo

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... ive noticed one of the short comings of my auto... in the first 1-2 or 2-3 shift in manual mode there is a noticeable delay at times like its confused. so lets say im in 2nd at 3K rpm on throttle and I hit the paddle ...ive noticed it will sometimes rev all the way to 5K then shift to 3rd. the higher gears seem ok but the torquey low gears it hesitates. its definitely not anything like a DCT im used to...
And thus the reason I switched my Nismo AT for the manual. I couldn't stand that delay...
 

trackratZ

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Well, I'll be bumping redline often at ZCON next month track day, for now varying RPMs locally since I'm only at about 3.5K miles on the 6MT. Looking forward, but will monitor brakes and heat soak mainly in hot AZ.
 

ZULU-1

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Drink coffee while reading:

FYI,

Perhaps someone already provided the following insight/info on the value of a good break-in period (combustion engine) …. specially relating to basic metallurgic and thermodynamics:

  • Initial friction between similar and dissimilar metals generate heat. Temperature increases with accelerated frictional movement; specific metal properties will react according to the temperature-effect on a given type of metal or metalloids. Normally, an increase in frictional temperature, will expand the molecules and thus increase the pressure between opposing metal surfaces (i.e. Piston heads and rings against the cylinder wall), hence the need for proper lubricantion to minimize/prevent early degradation of the metals (one cause of reduced compression ratio) By design, the piston rings allow for proper lubrication between the piston and a cylinder head. The rings also provide a seal between the cylinder walls and the combustion chamber (top). Also, the oil formulation must be adequate to function (lubricate) under a given temperature range for the specific engine design. That’s why it is critical to follow manufacturer’s recommendations/parameters on a specific engine.
  • During initial engine operational cycles (at manufacturing plant) the engine develops new groves/friction prints from the piston/piston-rings’ movement in the cylinder walls. Any gross tolerance deviations from any of its components’ specs, may cause an engine catastrophic failure; absent such a failure and/or spec out of tolerance, the unit gets a pass. Manufacturer’s test protocols, most likely don’t include an all-out repetitive max-rev-limiter test.
  • A break-in period (BI), should be incorporated during the initial operational cycles of a combustion engine. It is best to avoid excessive friction (high or prolonged constant rpm), which in turn could increase temperature and degrade cylinder wall groves …resulting in harmful effects on the optimal clearance for the rings to allow effective lubrication. The BI period conditions the metal to settle at tighter specs and stabilize the temp effect throughout the full operational range of the engine (as designed). Quick and extreme fluctuations in friction and resulting temperatures (before the proper clearance specs are achieved between the piston and cylinder wall), can result in an engine that uses excessive oil and/or operates at higher temps than normal… resulting in performance degradation. Most likely, the omission/ disregard for a BI period may result in a performance differential between two near identical VR30s…. but one with and the other without BI periods.
  • Regarding an early/initial oil change interval… just consider that the above BI process also results in unusual higher levels of metal content in the oil (metal shavings/residue bypassing/clogging the filter, etc..). Initial BI oil should be discarded. We don’t want a higher concentration of metal circulating in the oil during/after the above process settles the engine…. Also don’t forget to change the oil filter when doing the initial oil change. I recommend you cut open the removed filter cannister and feel/even see the collected residue in the filtration medium (this is frequently done in aviation combustion engines …in addition to submitting a sample for lab analisys). Nissan’s BI “recommendation” period should be broad enough to account for a reasonable range of environmental driving conditions. It may require modifications when operating in extreme environments… consult a trusted VR30 technician. Lately, the Southwest with triple digit temps may justify such consultation. The same applies to frigid/freezing environments.
Hopefully the above rambling session will help some of you to better appreciate the concept and reasons for a BI period on some engines. If you want to expand your knowledge, read a book on combustion engines and thermodynamics. Heat is the optimal limiter in engine efficiency and performance. I wonder if we will ever see Titanium alloy engines running incredible rpms…$$$$$ Heard of the SR-71?

Be well,
 

Zplz

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Once you get the car, you'll be looking for any excuse to drive it. That's what happened to me. I'm sure you can find a route that will become the "long way" to work.

You can find the manual online, and it has a section on break in. Just follow what you find there. I think I read the entire manual before I had the car.
Ah, yes. Just take the long way home.




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