Anyone had any issues with shifting? (6MT)

[FSUZ33]

Double clutching always works.

TBH, I've heard of double clutching but never knew what it was. Used 100 words to describe it and only needed 2. Well, now I know. Thx!

 

[CaliforniaZ]

So you’re saying both Nissan and Z you would expect to have a junk transmission? Curious why you bother talking about said transmission if it is exactly what you expected.

Anyway….

Because the OP asked so I gave my opinion. Doesn't mean I don't enjoy my car. No need to be a smartass. I've been driving Zs since the 240 and have owned several high performance cars like 400 whp evo ix, gt3, r8, etc.

 

[CaliforniaZ]

Than what? It already blows both the Ford MT-82 in the Mustang out of the galaxy and is way way better than the Toyota manual in the GR86/BRZ.

I’m wondering if people expect these transmissions to shift like a FWD Honda. I’ve driven the revised Z manual twice now and had not a single complaint. Nothing at all. The angle of operation could be slightly better, but that’s getting really picky.

Manuals get notchy. You change the fluid. And you change it to something very good like Redline. Then when it gets notchy again you change the fluid again. It’s the same story spanning 100+ years in the car world.

Why are you getting so offended. You're not the forum police or a moderator. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. If you don't like it keep it to yourself. No need to attack others for sharing their perspective. They have every right to their opinion like you and aren't bashing the car.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

This still happens when cold; at 10,500~ miles now. Though it does seem to go away after an extended warm up period (30 minutes~.) So I'm thinking its a fluid issue.

Just to clarify for those reading - I've driven rwd manual boxes my whole life, and I'm well aware of the different feeling you get with a fwd shifter versus a fully mechanical linkage like on a longitudal rwd trans. I'm not expecting a smooth feel of a cable operated shifter, or the in between feeling of a fwd rod/stabilizer operated shifter for that matter either.

For whatever reason, shifting this trans before its well up to temp gives an audible engagement noise going from 2-3 (less so 1-2.) This isn't the typical noise/feel I get from other rwd boxes I've driven, and I've driven a lot of them.

Not that its an excruciating problem, I'm moreso wondering why that is that it does that, plus I'd prefer to not have it do that if possible. Being that it goes away when warm I'm leaning towards the factory fluid if I had to take a guess.

 

[RobotAZ]

Why are you getting so offended. You're not the forum police or a moderator. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. If you don't like it keep it to yourself. No need to attack others for sharing their perspective. They have every right to their opinion like you and aren't bashing the car.

Sorry, I wasn’t offended. I could have been more uplifting, but I thought the trans was great. I wouldn’t put up with a Z 6MT that didn’t do basically everything flawlessly.

 

[RobotAZ]

This still happens when cold; at 10,500~ miles now. Though it does seem to go away after an extended warm up period (30 minutes~.) So I'm thinking its a fluid issue.

Just to clarify for those reading - I've driven rwd manual boxes my whole life, and I'm well aware of the different feeling you get with a fwd shifter versus a fully mechanical linkage like on a longitudal rwd trans. I'm not expecting a smooth feel of a cable operated shifter, or the in between feeling of a fwd rod/stabilizer operated shifter for that matter either.

For whatever reason, shifting this trans before its well up to temp gives an audible engagement noise going from 2-3 (less so 1-2.) This isn't the typical noise/feel I get from other rwd boxes I've driven, and I've driven a lot of them.

Not that its an excruciating problem, I'm moreso wondering why that is that it does that, plus I'd prefer to not have it do that if possible. Being that it goes away when warm I'm leaning towards the factory fluid if I had to take a guess.

I don’t think that’s normal. With it being mainly 2-3 I would start looking at the throw out bearing, then synchros. Can you hear a difference with the clutch in at idle vs clutch out?

 

[Katum68]

I don’t think that’s normal. With it being mainly 2-3 I would start looking at the throw out bearing, then synchros. Can you hear a difference with the clutch in at idle vs clutch out?

I'm still having an issue getting into reverse. Gear shifter does not want to go into Reverse. Double clutching, just holding n the clutch. A pain.

 

[RobotAZ]

I'm still having an issue getting into reverse. Gear shifter does not want to go into Reverse. Double clutching, just holding n the clutch. A pain.

High probability that you have a reverse lockout adjustment issue. On the 350Z you put the tranny in 6th with the lockout nuts loose, then slide the plate as far as you can to the left and tighten.

A test you can do is to feel the plate going into reverse and see if pushing hard to the right makes it easier, or just barely going enough right around the plate it slides into gear. Or in other words, it’s hard to get in gear pulling straight down.

Its possible you have a bad habit of pushing to hard to the right or something. I would address the lockout plate. The plate out of spec can also cause shifting issues in 1-2 shifts.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

I don’t think that’s normal. With it being mainly 2-3 I would start looking at the throw out bearing, then synchros. Can you hear a difference with the clutch in at idle vs clutch out?

With 10,500 miles on the car I would be very hard pressed to believe it would be a throw out bearing issue though. Not that being a new car precludes it from any issues, but I'd be inclined to say the possibility of that is a low one.

If I did take it to Nissan I'd be at the mercy of a tech actually being knowledgeable and thorough enough to look into it as opposed to "nope, that's normal." and closing the service order out.

I might pick up some trans fluid though; Looking at what you linked in the other thread, I wouldn't be surprised in the least if that was causing it.

 

[RobotAZ]

With 10,500 miles on the car I would be very hard pressed to believe it would be a throw out bearing issue though. Not that being a new car precludes it from any issues, but I'd be inclined to say the possibility of that is a low one.

If I did take it to Nissan I'd be at the mercy of a tech actually being knowledgeable and thorough enough to look into it as opposed to "nope, that's normal." and closing the service order out.

I might pick up some trans fluid though; Looking at what you linked in the other thread, I wouldn't be surprised in the least if that was causing it.

I rarely used to hear of TOB failures before a clutch needed to be replaced anyway, but now it’s getting more and more common.

 

[Katum68]

High probability that you have a reverse lockout adjustment issue. On the 350Z you put the tranny in 6th with the lockout nuts loose, then slide the plate as far as you can to the left and tighten.

A test you can do is to feel the plate going into reverse and see if pushing hard to the right makes it easier, or just barely going enough right around the plate it slides into gear. Or in other words, it’s hard to get in gear pulling straight down.

Its possible you have a bad habit of pushing to hard to the right or something. I would address the lockout plate. The plate out of spec can also cause shifting issues in 1-2 shifts.

BTW, it did Geta little worse ate switching to a NISMO clutch..

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

After driving more than 4,000 miles on my 2024 Z Performance and changing the Clutch to the NISMO clutch, I take back everything I said about smoothness. Double cutting not helping very much. Definitely notchy and a royal pain to get into reverse. I'm having Nissan look at it next week.

What reason did you choose the Nismo clutch from a 370Z into the Z?

Than what? It already blows both the Ford MT-82 in the Mustang out of the galaxy and is way way better than the Toyota manual in the GR86/BRZ.

I’m wondering if people expect these transmissions to shift like a FWD Honda. I’ve driven the revised Z manual twice now and had not a single complaint. Nothing at all. The angle of operation could be slightly better, but that’s getting really picky.

Manuals get notchy. You change the fluid. And you change it to something very good like Redline. Then when it gets notchy again you change the fluid again. It’s the same story spanning 100+ years in the car world.

R154 5sp trans is the best hands down. V160/161 6sp trans was good, but they didnt stick around very long

RZ34 OEM clutch is a heavy pig. Could be related to the Rev Hang and trying to get the clutch to match the engine during disengagement

This still happens when cold; at 10,500~ miles now. Though it does seem to go away after an extended warm up period (30 minutes~.) So I'm thinking its a fluid issue.

Im at 12k and still having Shift 1st-2nd issues when cold. Very notchy and/or not going into 2nd. Sometimes I have to granny shift or double clutch for it to go in. After warm up, its back to normal. 2nd-3rd when high revving is an issue and I dont shift fast anymore. Im thinking its related to Rev hang.

What fluid would you go with?
I do plan on switching to the lighter Z1 OE clutch and maybe the flywheel as well

 

[NocturnalEmber]

What reason did you choose the Nismo clutch from a 370Z into the Z?


R154 5sp trans is the best hands down. V160/161 6sp trans was good, but they didnt stick around very long

RZ34 OEM clutch is a heavy pig. Could be related to the Rev Hang and trying to get the clutch to match the engine during disengagement


Im at 12k and still having Shift 1st-2nd issues when cold. Very notchy and/or not going into 2nd. Sometimes I have to granny shift or double clutch for it to go in. After warm up, its back to normal. 2nd-3rd when high revving is an issue and I dont shift fast anymore. Im thinking its related to Rev hang.

What fluid would you go with?
I do plan on switching to the lighter Z1 OE clutch and maybe the flywheel as well

I don't think fluid would have any bearing on the clutch operation on a car this new in regular situations unless there was some reason air was introduced into the line. If it were me I wouldn't remove the factory dual mass flywheel either, I'm not a fan of unnecessary nvh. I don't have an issue with how the clutch grabs, the upshifting noise going into the 2-3 gate while cold is my chief complaint, which I'm assuming at this point will likely be solved by a trans fluid change, I hope.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

I rarely used to hear of TOB failures before a clutch needed to be replaced anyway, but now it’s getting more and more common.

I'm not hearing any of the audible symptoms at rest when engaging or disengaging the clutch pedal. Pretty convinced at this point its fluid/temperature dependent, as the sound goes away after its had a half an hour or so to warm up.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

I don't think fluid would have any bearing on the clutch operation on a car this new in regular situations unless there was some reason air was introduced into the line. If it were me I wouldn't remove the factory dual mass flywheel either, I'm not a fan of unnecessary nvh. I don't have an issue with how the clutch grabs, the upshifting noise going into the 2-3 gate while cold is my chief complaint, which I'm assuming at this point will likely be solved by a trans fluid change, I hope.

Noted on the flywheel

What audible noise are you experiencing?