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P0096 Error Code

Z.Bush1do

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Hi guys anybody that came across this code in their Z? At first I thought the check engine light that I got was for the Lower DP but to my surprise it was an error code for IAT2 sensor. The Car's intake is stock mods is b6a non reso lower dp z1 ypipe and isr cat back exhaust only. Thank you!
 

FSUZ33

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Couldn’t find PN/info on IAT sensors for the VR30. It appears the IAT’s are built into the MAF‘s, and P0096 is specifically for sensor 2, which is the passenger side MAF. You said your intake is stock. Are your air filters?

The interweb consensus is bad sensor, wiring open or short, or an Intake leak.

Do you have the ability to clear the code?

Check the intake to make sure everything’s fitted correctly (fittings/connections, filter sitting correctly in the intake, lid on intake snug & secure, MAF wiring abrasions, not sure how accessible the MAF connector is, but if you can, disconnect the neg battery terminal, let the car sit for 30 secs and unplug/replug the MAF). If all looks good, you clear the code and it comes back, you may need to dig down to the MAF and pull it to make sure its not damaged or contaminated.
 
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Z.Bush1do

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Yes i got the code reset and yes the filter is stock too if it comes back i will dig deeper its just weird because the car only has 2800 miles
 

FSUZ33

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I learned to work on cars when my dad bought a ‘62 Impala SS to fully restore. Carburetor and drum brake knowledge is pretty useless now. But tbh, most of it’s useless now. New cars are now 100 sensors meshed together through multiple control modules that are meshed together...it makes me hesitant to modify anything, which I really would like to do.

Good luck! ?
 

JonnyG

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Is everything you put in 2.5" - if 3" LDP's or Catback that is the reason. Also, question why do LDP's and Catback without intakes - serious question
 

alienpoker

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I would simply swap the MAF/IAT2 to the other side. If the fault code moves to MAF/IAT1 it’s the sensor.

If the fault stays on MAF/IAT2 with the other sensor there- it’s probably a faulty wiring issue. Or weirdly could be a vacuum leak around the sensor, or something with your air intake(s) / Exhaust changes. Sometimes you have to retune the ECU if the intakes/exhaust have changed significantly.

I had a vacuum leak on my old 2010 370Z Nismo around the MAF/IAT sensor on one side, and it threw strange codes about the sensor on that side. I followed the above swap and the code stayed on the same side. I took out the MAFs to clean them, and found a hose had split on the PCV breather on that side, just after the MAF. Maybe it’s just a hose clamp just after the Airbox/MAF that needs to be tightened?

You can clean them with special MAF cleaning spray. I’d do that anyway ($15 or so) as the replacement part will be expensive and you’re taking them out anyway, if you swap them.

MAF Part is likely:
Stock Code 22680-7S000
Price: $ 220
But the parts dept or service dept at a dealership will likely charge you more. From experience, they tend to add on 20% (or more) to parts for new cars. Sad but true. ?

Here’s a YouTube vid that shows checking the resistance of the IAT with a multimeter. (If you do your own maintenance) As it’s a combined unit, you would need to find out the pins to measure and the allowable range.

I usually will try to identify the exact issue before going to a dealership. As the car is so new, it might be covered as a warranty item. Unlikely, but possible. I hadn’t intended to write War&Peace, but wanted you to have the info. Knowledge is power. Good luck.
IMG_2865.jpeg
 
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alienpoker

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Couldn’t find PN/info on IAT sensors for the VR30. It appears the IAT’s are built into the MAF‘s, and P0096 is specifically for sensor 2, which is the passenger side MAF. You said your intake is stock. Are your air filters?

The interweb consensus is bad sensor, wiring open or short, or an Intake leak.

Do you have the ability to clear the code?

Check the intake to make sure everything’s fitted correctly (fittings/connections, filter sitting correctly in the intake, lid on intake snug & secure, MAF wiring abrasions, not sure how accessible the MAF connector is, but if you can, disconnect the neg battery terminal, let the car sit for 30 secs and unplug/replug the MAF). If all looks good, you clear the code and it comes back, you may need to dig down to the MAF and pull it to make sure its not damaged or contaminated.
MAF is right after the air filer on the airbox. If you can change an air filter, you can find the MAF.
 

FSUZ33

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I would simply swap the MAF/IAT2 to the other side. If the fault code moves to MAF/IAT1 it’s the sensor.
Great suggestion!
PN is the same for both sides, so it's interchangeable.

In case you do need a replacement, Z1 shows OEM# 22680-7131R for the '23+ Z @ $218

-> Not saying 22680-7S000 wouldn't work, but the fitment list doesn't show the RZ34 (over 300 fitments!).
22680-7131R shows it's used on all years & models of the RZ34 and recent Frontier models.
 

alienpoker

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Great suggestion!
PN is the same for both sides, so it's interchangeable.

In case you do need a replacement, Z1 shows OEM# 22680-7131R for the '23+ Z @ $218

-> Not saying 22680-7S000 wouldn't work, but the fitment list doesn't show the RZ34 (over 300 fitments!).
22680-7131R shows it's used on all years & models of the RZ34 and recent Frontier models.
Thanks for the correction. The diagram I used showed 22680-xx so I searched using just that number and not make & model. Obv use the 7131R as it’s specific for RZ34.
 
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Z.Bush1do

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All right will do these suggestions. Drove the car today and check engine went up again with the same code
 
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Z.Bush1do

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Is everything you put in 2.5" - if 3" LDP's or Catback that is the reason. Also, question why do LDP's and Catback without intakes - serious question
2.5 ldp and 3 inch catback
 
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Z.Bush1do

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Car will be tuned definitely next month once I switch out to a fdp. I went this way cause there should be no check engine light in this setup. I will try to switch the maf sensor to the driver side and see if it will go with it
 

JonnyG

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Car will be tuned definitely next month once I switch out to a fdp. I went this way cause there should be no check engine light in this setup. I will try to switch the maf sensor to the driver side and see if it will go with it
FDP's are usually unecessary - most of the restriction is in the LDP's. Also, if you get unresonated you will have a cel that is illegal for a tuner to remove. 3" LDP's Resonated to a 3" catback should do trick IMO - but again check with the tuner you choose. I use RAE Motorsports for LDP's, catback and intake.
 

NocturnalEmber

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Hi guys anybody that came across this code in their Z? At first I thought the check engine light that I got was for the Lower DP but to my surprise it was an error code for IAT2 sensor. The Car's intake is stock mods is b6a non reso lower dp z1 ypipe and isr cat back exhaust only. Thank you!
Unrelated, but if you have the isr exhaust, did you notice any fitment issues with it?
 
 






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