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HAVS
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I did not cut any wires in my installation. I used all Metra wiring harnesses. Took a couple days to come in. I have used Metra harnesses for twenty plus years and it worked great.
Cabeza187
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Do you have a link for the harness?
HAVS
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Metra 70-7552 and 71-7552 but I did have to move a pin for the reverse wire to operate the back up camera but that was just on one harness. Very easy. I used this diagram to make sure everything was correct.
Exquisite_Red
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Got some new information to share regarding the stock Sport audio. I was doing a re-tune of my system and grabbed some measurements of the stock signal from the amp.
I took readings using pink noise through the stock amp with EQ settings flat. This is a recording of the direct signal from the amp into my interface (this is NOT a recording with a mic). So these results do not capture the interactions and resonances of the cabin. The intent of this information is to help understand the baseline that the Sport amp provides.
For reference, this is what pink noise looks like when fed directly to the analyzer. This is the target "perfect" response:
Below is the measurement of the pink noise directly from the Sport amp. There's a lot going on here. Lots of 6+ db valleys between 60-250 Hz and 500Hz - 3kHz. There is a huge dip at ~1.3kHz, which is a crucial frequency for clarity. The dips in the 100-200Hz range combined with the peak at 500Hz are a recipe for a weak, boxy sound.
The amp is tuned this way to compensate for the cabin and the weird mismatched resistances of the front speakers, so this isn't what you actually hear on the stock system. But if you are installing aftermarket amps and speakers, this is the mess that you have to deal with. This is why changing system components without also adding DSP can result in a worse sound than stock. It will emphasize this problem.
If you plan to implement subwoofers, you'll need to overcome the highpass filter of the factory amp. The highpass filter starts at 55Hz. You can see that the level is ~24db lower at 27.5Hz, so this is a 24db/octave filter. You'll need a DSP to restore the audio below the highpass cutoff point. Installing a sub without fixing this is pretty much a waste, since you'll get less than an octave of useful range based on the typical subwoofer lowpass setting of 80Hz.
Now, here are my results after DSP.
First this is my sub channel. I was able to restore the audio below the highpass cutoff. This graph only shows from 25-200Hz. I was worried that this much gain would introduce noise, but, luckily, it sounds pretty clean. My Stereo Integrity SQL10 digs deep now!
And here is the response I was able to achieve on the mids and highs. It's pretty much +/-2db throughout the whole range. It took every single band of the DSP's EQ to accomplish this, and it's still not perfect! But it's pretty close and sounds great in the car. This is before EQing for taste, I just wanted to share that it is possible to get a near flat response out of the stock amp!
I took readings using pink noise through the stock amp with EQ settings flat. This is a recording of the direct signal from the amp into my interface (this is NOT a recording with a mic). So these results do not capture the interactions and resonances of the cabin. The intent of this information is to help understand the baseline that the Sport amp provides.
For reference, this is what pink noise looks like when fed directly to the analyzer. This is the target "perfect" response:
Below is the measurement of the pink noise directly from the Sport amp. There's a lot going on here. Lots of 6+ db valleys between 60-250 Hz and 500Hz - 3kHz. There is a huge dip at ~1.3kHz, which is a crucial frequency for clarity. The dips in the 100-200Hz range combined with the peak at 500Hz are a recipe for a weak, boxy sound.
The amp is tuned this way to compensate for the cabin and the weird mismatched resistances of the front speakers, so this isn't what you actually hear on the stock system. But if you are installing aftermarket amps and speakers, this is the mess that you have to deal with. This is why changing system components without also adding DSP can result in a worse sound than stock. It will emphasize this problem.
If you plan to implement subwoofers, you'll need to overcome the highpass filter of the factory amp. The highpass filter starts at 55Hz. You can see that the level is ~24db lower at 27.5Hz, so this is a 24db/octave filter. You'll need a DSP to restore the audio below the highpass cutoff point. Installing a sub without fixing this is pretty much a waste, since you'll get less than an octave of useful range based on the typical subwoofer lowpass setting of 80Hz.
Now, here are my results after DSP.
First this is my sub channel. I was able to restore the audio below the highpass cutoff. This graph only shows from 25-200Hz. I was worried that this much gain would introduce noise, but, luckily, it sounds pretty clean. My Stereo Integrity SQL10 digs deep now!
And here is the response I was able to achieve on the mids and highs. It's pretty much +/-2db throughout the whole range. It took every single band of the DSP's EQ to accomplish this, and it's still not perfect! But it's pretty close and sounds great in the car. This is before EQing for taste, I just wanted to share that it is possible to get a near flat response out of the stock amp!
