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I did not cut any wires in my installation. I used all Metra wiring harnesses. Took a couple days to come in. I have used Metra harnesses for twenty plus years and it worked great.
Cabeza187
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Do you have a link for the harness?
HAVS
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Metra 70-7552 and 71-7552 but I did have to move a pin for the reverse wire to operate the back up camera but that was just on one harness. Very easy. I used this diagram to make sure everything was correct.
Exquisite_Red
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Got some new information to share regarding the stock Sport audio. I was doing a re-tune of my system and grabbed some measurements of the stock signal from the amp.
I took readings using pink noise through the stock amp with EQ settings flat. This is a recording of the direct signal from the amp into my interface (this is NOT a recording with a mic). So these results do not capture the interactions and resonances of the cabin. The intent of this information is to help understand the baseline that the Sport amp provides.
For reference, this is what pink noise looks like when fed directly to the analyzer. This is the target "perfect" response:
Below is the measurement of the pink noise directly from the Sport amp. There's a lot going on here. Lots of 6+ db valleys between 60-250 Hz and 500Hz - 3kHz. There is a huge dip at ~1.3kHz, which is a crucial frequency for clarity. The dips in the 100-200Hz range combined with the peak at 500Hz are a recipe for a weak, boxy sound.
The amp is tuned this way to compensate for the cabin and the weird mismatched resistances of the front speakers, so this isn't what you actually hear on the stock system. But if you are installing aftermarket amps and speakers, this is the mess that you have to deal with. This is why changing system components without also adding DSP can result in a worse sound than stock. It will emphasize this problem.
If you plan to implement subwoofers, you'll need to overcome the highpass filter of the factory amp. The highpass filter starts at 55Hz. You can see that the level is ~24db lower at 27.5Hz, so this is a 24db/octave filter. You'll need a DSP to restore the audio below the highpass cutoff point. Installing a sub without fixing this is pretty much a waste, since you'll get less than an octave of useful range based on the typical subwoofer lowpass setting of 80Hz.
Now, here are my results after DSP.
First this is my sub channel. I was able to restore the audio below the highpass cutoff. This graph only shows from 25-200Hz. I was worried that this much gain would introduce noise, but, luckily, it sounds pretty clean. My Stereo Integrity SQL10 digs deep now!
And here is the response I was able to achieve on the mids and highs. It's pretty much +/-2db throughout the whole range. It took every single band of the DSP's EQ to accomplish this, and it's still not perfect! But it's pretty close and sounds great in the car. This is before EQing for taste, I just wanted to share that it is possible to get a near flat response out of the stock amp!
I took readings using pink noise through the stock amp with EQ settings flat. This is a recording of the direct signal from the amp into my interface (this is NOT a recording with a mic). So these results do not capture the interactions and resonances of the cabin. The intent of this information is to help understand the baseline that the Sport amp provides.
For reference, this is what pink noise looks like when fed directly to the analyzer. This is the target "perfect" response:
Below is the measurement of the pink noise directly from the Sport amp. There's a lot going on here. Lots of 6+ db valleys between 60-250 Hz and 500Hz - 3kHz. There is a huge dip at ~1.3kHz, which is a crucial frequency for clarity. The dips in the 100-200Hz range combined with the peak at 500Hz are a recipe for a weak, boxy sound.
The amp is tuned this way to compensate for the cabin and the weird mismatched resistances of the front speakers, so this isn't what you actually hear on the stock system. But if you are installing aftermarket amps and speakers, this is the mess that you have to deal with. This is why changing system components without also adding DSP can result in a worse sound than stock. It will emphasize this problem.
If you plan to implement subwoofers, you'll need to overcome the highpass filter of the factory amp. The highpass filter starts at 55Hz. You can see that the level is ~24db lower at 27.5Hz, so this is a 24db/octave filter. You'll need a DSP to restore the audio below the highpass cutoff point. Installing a sub without fixing this is pretty much a waste, since you'll get less than an octave of useful range based on the typical subwoofer lowpass setting of 80Hz.
Now, here are my results after DSP.
First this is my sub channel. I was able to restore the audio below the highpass cutoff. This graph only shows from 25-200Hz. I was worried that this much gain would introduce noise, but, luckily, it sounds pretty clean. My Stereo Integrity SQL10 digs deep now!
And here is the response I was able to achieve on the mids and highs. It's pretty much +/-2db throughout the whole range. It took every single band of the DSP's EQ to accomplish this, and it's still not perfect! But it's pretty close and sounds great in the car. This is before EQing for taste, I just wanted to share that it is possible to get a near flat response out of the stock amp!
Ntlavy85
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Sorry for the late reply, got my OWC harness about 7-8 weeks after I ordered it. I had a question regarding my DSP wiring and the remote turn on line and when I called the guy who makes them, he picked right up and was helpful.
My understanding is the Sport model stereo amplification comes right out of the dash factory head unit. If you wanted to keep your system less complicated, you'd pull full range (filtered) signal from the rear speakers right into speaker level inputs on a powered spare tire sub like a JBL BassPro Hub This has an integrated LPF (block mids/highs) and adjustable gain. Then adjust you LPF and gain from the sub remote. But as stated earlier, this wont be getting the sub-55hrz signal that the factory crossover pulls out.
Ideally you find a solution that gets access to full range signal that has no factory crossover or the bass roll-off. The type of LOC you're looking for is one capable of more advanced signal processing and possibly non-amplified. The cheapest I could find with like capability is a Kicker 47Keyloc Smart LOC.
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Exquisite_Red
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There are devices designed specifically to deal with this: see Bass Restoration Processors at Crutchfield. This is your cheapest option. However, these are more of a hack than an actual fix. They use the upper harmonics of the sound to “guess” what the low end should be and then add it in. If all you care about is adding some boom to the bottom end, these types of processors will be fine. But if you care about maintaining the quality and integrity of the actual original audio, you’ll need to get a proper DSP that can actually reverse the curve of the HPF from the factory amp. Installing and properly tuning a full DSP system is not for the faint of heart, so if you really want to understand the cost and effort necessary, you probably want to talk to the best rated local car audio shop. To get a DSP in and tuned, you’re probably talking at least $1,500, and that’s before even considering the price of the sub and amp. Definitely not cheap to fix the janky Sport audio!