Lowering springs (SOLVED)

[JONXUMANA]

I purchased a set of Swift lowering springs for my NISMO, and in conjunction, I also purchased the following.

A'PEXi - EXV Rear Camber Arm (Pillow Ball) - Nissan 370Z (Z34) / Z (RZ | APEXi USA
Adjustable Toe Control Arm - Nissan 370Z & Z RZ34

Are these compatible if I'm still running the rear OEM midlink (bucket)? Or do I have to purchase the NISMO one?
NISMO 370Z / G37 Billet Rear Mid Links / Spring Arm

Thanks.

 

[OptionZero]

The arm that is affected by factory style spring and bucket vs "true" coilover setup is the toe arm

For factory bucket style you retain the factory arm for swift springs.
There is an adjustable replacement made by SPL Parts (and sold by Nismo with red/black colors), but those require a specific spring diameter for use with coilovers
The factory arm is not adjustable. Camber and toe is adjusted with eccentric bolts from the factory.

Swapping to a true coilover setup you would ditch the bucket arm and replace it with an adjustable toe arm, such as the one you linked. Because it is length adjustable at the end, you would replace the factory eccentric bolts with a lockout kit (nonmoving versions of the bolts)

Regardless of whether you have a true coilover or factory bucket setup, the two other arms can be replaced: the camber arm and the traction link. Replacing all three arms allows for full camber and toe adjustment with MUCH greater range and precision than eccentric bolts.

All of this adjustment is pretty much wasted with just a spring replacement. Cancel your order an order the Sake Bomb Ohlins setup with air cups, then order stuff from here:
https://www.splparts.com/z-z34-2023/

and be happy with full height and alignment adjustment, air cups to get over ramps and bumps, and thrash your car on the car while driving totally fine on the street

 

[JONXUMANA]

The arm that is affected by factory style spring and bucket vs "true" coilover setup is the toe arm

For factory bucket style you retain the factory arm for swift springs.
There is an adjustable replacement made by SPL Parts (and sold by Nismo with red/black colors), but those require a specific spring diameter for use with coilovers
The factory arm is not adjustable. Camber and toe is adjusted with eccentric bolts from the factory.

Swapping to a true coilover setup you would ditch the bucket arm and replace it with an adjustable toe arm, such as the one you linked. Because it is length adjustable at the end, you would replace the factory eccentric bolts with a lockout kit (nonmoving versions of the bolts)

Regardless of whether you have a true coilover or factory bucket setup, the two other arms can be replaced: the camber arm and the traction link. Replacing all three arms allows for full camber and toe adjustment with MUCH greater range and precision than eccentric bolts.

All of this adjustment is pretty much wasted with just a spring replacement. Cancel your order an order the Sake Bomb Ohlins setup with air cups, then order stuff from here:
https://www.splparts.com/z-z34-2023/

and be happy with full height and alignment adjustment, air cups to get over ramps and bumps, and thrash your car on the car while driving totally fine on the street

So I cant adjust toe with the stock bucket arm? Or rather is the white line arm that I purchased not a separate arm that can adjust toe?

 

[OptionZero]

So I cant adjust toe with the stock bucket arm? Or rather is the white line arm that I purchased not a separate arm that can adjust toe?

There are three main "arms" in the rear suspension

The blue arm is the mid-link, which has the bucket for the spring. This is the arm that is replaced when there is a "true" coilover (spring wrapped around shock) with a "toe arm" (the arm you linked to)

The red arm is the camber arm. This arm is in place regardless of whether you have the factory bucket or a toe arm

The yellow arm is the traction link. This is also in place regardless of setup.

These arms are fixed. There is no length adjustment to change camber or toe in factory form.

Instead, alignment in the rear is adjusted via eccentric bolts on the subframe. These rotate with a slight offset and slightly change the length of the arm's end point. It allows for very limited camber and toe adjustment. Red is toe, and connected to the factory mid link/bucket. Blue is camber, attached to the factory camber arm.

You got replacement springs only, which means you retain the factory bucket. That means you will NOT need a replacement toe arm.

You will still have the factory camber and traction link arms and both eccentric bolts for adjustment.

The ideal way to lower your car and gain full alignment adjustability is to replace your springs and shocks with a coilover setup. Aftermarket coilovers are available in both factory style divorced spring/shock style or true coilover style. For most people there is no real advantage.

Depending on the style you get you will get a replacement mid link or a replacement toe arm, and either way you should replace the camber and toe links with adjustable versions that can change length. The best ones on the market are SPL Parts or their Nismo recolors.

I recommended the Sake Bomb Garage Ohlins because they start with a high quality brand coilover and customize it to your use, and also have an air cup system designed to work with it.

 

[JONXUMANA]

There are three main "arms" in the rear suspension

The blue arm is the mid-link, which has the bucket for the spring. This is the arm that is replaced when there is a "true" coilover (spring wrapped around shock) with a "toe arm" (the arm you linked to)

The red arm is the camber arm. This arm is in place regardless of whether you have the factory bucket or a toe arm

The yellow arm is the traction link. This is also in place regardless of setup.

These arms are fixed. There is no length adjustment to change camber or toe in factory form.

Instead, alignment in the rear is adjusted via eccentric bolts on the subframe. These rotate with a slight offset and slightly change the length of the arm's end point. It allows for very limited camber and toe adjustment. Red is toe, and connected to the factory mid link/bucket. Blue is camber, attached to the factory camber arm.

You got replacement springs only, which means you retain the factory bucket. That means you will NOT need a replacement toe arm.

You will still have the factory camber and traction link arms and both eccentric bolts for adjustment.

The ideal way to lower your car and gain full alignment adjustability is to replace your springs and shocks with a coilover setup. Aftermarket coilovers are available in both factory style divorced spring/shock style or true coilover style. For most people there is no real advantage.

Depending on the style you get you will get a replacement mid link or a replacement toe arm, and either way you should replace the camber and toe links with adjustable versions that can change length. The best ones on the market are SPL Parts or their Nismo recolors.

I recommended the Sake Bomb Garage Ohlins because they start with a high quality brand coilover and customize it to your use, and also have an air cup system designed to work with it.

I don’t think you’re understanding my original question; which is if the Whiteline Toe arms are the only type of arms available to adjust toe.

I ordered those along with adjustable camber arms from Apex’i, w/ the SPL eccentric bolt lock out kit which is needed anyways.

Since I’m changing the geometry of the vehicle and mainly care about camber adjustment so I’m not running excessive rear camber from lowering car, are the Toe arms really needed? If so, is changing the bucket style to an adjustable one required, or would I have enough adjustability for a 0.05-0.10 with the OEM design of the bucket and bolts?

 

[JONXUMANA]

There are three main "arms" in the rear suspension

The blue arm is the mid-link, which has the bucket for the spring. This is the arm that is replaced when there is a "true" coilover (spring wrapped around shock) with a "toe arm" (the arm you linked to)

The red arm is the camber arm. This arm is in place regardless of whether you have the factory bucket or a toe arm

The yellow arm is the traction link. This is also in place regardless of setup.

These arms are fixed. There is no length adjustment to change camber or toe in factory form.

Instead, alignment in the rear is adjusted via eccentric bolts on the subframe. These rotate with a slight offset and slightly change the length of the arm's end point. It allows for very limited camber and toe adjustment. Red is toe, and connected to the factory mid link/bucket. Blue is camber, attached to the factory camber arm.

You got replacement springs only, which means you retain the factory bucket. That means you will NOT need a replacement toe arm.

You will still have the factory camber and traction link arms and both eccentric bolts for adjustment.

The ideal way to lower your car and gain full alignment adjustability is to replace your springs and shocks with a coilover setup. Aftermarket coilovers are available in both factory style divorced spring/shock style or true coilover style. For most people there is no real advantage.

Depending on the style you get you will get a replacement mid link or a replacement toe arm, and either way you should replace the camber and toe links with adjustable versions that can change length. The best ones on the market are SPL Parts or their Nismo recolors.

I recommended the Sake Bomb Garage Ohlins because they start with a high quality brand coilover and customize it to your use, and also have an air cup system designed to work with it.

And also yes I am aware I could’ve gotten coilovers but I’m not ready to jump on that path yet since I’m very content with the OEM ride of the NISMO dampers and I’m really chasing on getting rid of some wheel gap.

And I would like to see a review of those SakeBomb Ohlins from a NISMO owner before I jump the gun on a big investment like that.

When I’m ready, I will definitely be eyeing those or KW V3/Clubsport and perhaps HKS Hipermax S.

 

[OptionZero]

wait wait wait

you bought the Apexi toe arms already?

and you plan on using them?

look the diagrams and re-read my posts

do you see a problem?

 

[JONXUMANA]

wait wait wait

you bought the Apexi toe arms already?

and you plan on using them?

look the diagrams and re-read my posts

do you see a problem?

No, I purchased the Apex'i Camber links for the one highlighted in red.
I also purchased the Whiteline Toe arms at the same time, thinking they were needed, but after re-reading what you pointed out, since I'm only replacing the springs, I can't use them because they would replace the bucket midlinks?

 

[JONXUMANA]

wait wait wait

you bought the Apexi toe arms already?

and you plan on using them?

look the diagrams and re-read my posts

do you see a problem?

I did some more research, and I solved my own problem lol.
Thanks for your input and knowledge.

 

[FSUZ33]

I assume you've got it now, but no, with a spring change only you can't use those Whiteline toe arms.
The first two paragraphs of his first reply explained this, but if you don't know the Z suspension or multi-link suspension and all of it's terminology intricately, it can be a little confusing (like it was for me 6-9 months ago.

Also, NISMO owner here, with the Sakebomb/Ohlins true coilovers (and air cups btw).
Not installed yet. But I CAN say with 100% certainty that they look absolutely fantastic laid out on my dining room table.