Installed the JAP Garage Oil Solenoid Bypass Delete Kit - Works great! :)

[Schantin]

Title sums it up. I ordered an oil solenoid bypass delete kit from JAP Garage and installed it a couple days ago. Install was very straight forward. I had the job complete in under an hour (counting putting the car on jack stands). I can confirm the following:

1. If you zip tie the original solenoid out of the way with the electrical connector still plugged in, you will NOT get an engine code or engine light.

2. I was performing 3k mile oil changes and still found debris collecting on the inlet port of the solenoid bypass. That debris is what leads to eventual failure and the bypass sticking in the "open" position.

3. My fuel economy remained unchanged after the install. I've put 200 miles on the car travelling to/from work this week.

I made an install vid. I documented how the stock solenoid bypass operates and also how I secured it out of the way while keeping the electrical connector plugged in.

 

[5amp5on]

You are the hero I needed. Thanks for the straight forward videos.

 

[ZULU-1]

Great job Phil…. appreciate you sharing this info. On a different topic…did you exchanged OEM calipers for the Lime/Yellow set seen in the video…or use some aftermarket wrap-on/powder-painted set? I’m considering changing the color on my Performance Z, caliper set. Also, would you describe the way you conducted a break-in period …if any?

By the way, I wonder if the metal you found on the inlet port of the solenoid was rendered by a bench-check/run at the factory, or as the engine settled during the BI period. Please, follow-up on the integrity of the Solenoid plastic, tape, and tie-wraps for long-term endurance (as it relates to the current elevated ambient temps.)

Be well, Thanks…

 

[tnhellbilly]

Thanks for the video. Gave me the push I needed to address this issue.

 

[Michael C.]

Thanks, Phillip! I referred to your hood-popper delete video when I deleted my poppers. I will be referring to this video when I delete my solenoid bypass valve. By comparison, this seems like a much easier job.

 

[Skiveg]

Great video, appreciate the insight. My only concern is with the sensor now wrapped in a plastic sandwich bag next to a hot engine. Doesn’t look like a long term solution.
I’ve heard a tune can remove the need for the sensor altogether? Does this mean it can then be completely removed?

 

[Bumflik]

I had mine unplugged then ecutek tuned for my project build. No CEL

 

[Skiveg]

I had mine unplugged then ecutek tuned for my project build. No CEL

Awesome, thanks

 

[Schantin]

Great job Phil…. appreciate you sharing this info. On a different topic…did you exchanged OEM calipers for the Lime/Yellow set seen in the video…or use some aftermarket wrap-on/powder-painted set? I’m considering changing the color on my Performance Z, caliper set. Also, would you describe the way you conducted a break-in period …if any?

By the way, I wonder if the metal you found on the inlet port of the solenoid was rendered by a bench-check/run at the factory, or as the engine settled during the BI period. Please, follow-up on the integrity of the Solenoid plastic, tape, and tie-wraps for long-term endurance (as it relates to the current elevated ambient temps.)

Be well, Thanks…

Thanks.

1. For the calipers I used the G2 Ceramic kit in Lime Green from Amazon. I have mixed feelings on it. The rear calipers still look brand new, but I have had some flaking on the front calipers. I think it's from the local carwash, but I feel it should still hold up.

2. I'm sure the debris on the end of the oil solenoid bypass valve is from engine break in and operation. I followed Nissan's recommendation of keeping RPMs under 4000 and varying the RPM and speed during that time as well. Nissan doesn't actually say you need to change the oil and filter after the 1200 mile break in run, but changing the oil/filter seems the smart answer, so I did change mine.

3. I'll check the solenoid and wrapping when I do my 9k mile oil change.

- Regarding can you tune the solenoid out and then just remove it completely. Yes, you absolutely can do that. For me, I am not performing any tuning on the car while it is under factory warranty. So, keeping the solenoid plugged in and secured out of the way ensures I don't get a CEL while maintaining a stock tune.

 

[Schantin]

Thanks, Phillip! I referred to your hood-popper delete video when I deleted my poppers. I will be referring to this video when I delete my solenoid bypass valve. By comparison, this seems like a much easier job.

Thanks. Aside from having to crawl under the car, I thought this job was easier than the hood popper delete too.

 

[5amp5on]

I wonder how much more difficult access is on an automatic. I'm going to scope it out in depth during my next oil change.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

Great video, appreciate the insight. My only concern is with the sensor now wrapped in a plastic sandwich bag next to a hot engine. Doesn’t look like a long term solution.
I’ve heard a tune can remove the need for the sensor altogether? Does this mean it can then be completely removed?

ECUTek software and a tuner can remove the error code that causes the CEL. No need for the solenoid to stay plugged in.

Keeping the solenoid plugged in and wrapped also keeps the CEL away. This is a cheap fix for removing a failure point on the VR30.

Research has shown the solenoid failing has caused catastrophic engine failure from oil starvation.

 

[trackratZ]

Thanks.

1. For the calipers I used the G2 Ceramic kit in Lime Green from Amazon. I have mixed feelings on it. The rear calipers still look brand new, but I have had some flaking on the front calipers. I think it's from the local carwash, but I feel it should still hold up.

2. I'm sure the debris on the end of the oil solenoid bypass valve is from engine break in and operation. I followed Nissan's recommendation of keeping RPMs under 4000 and varying the RPM and speed during that time as well. Nissan doesn't actually say you need to change the oil and filter after the 1200 mile break in run, but changing the oil/filter seems the smart answer, so I did change mine.

3. I'll check the solenoid and wrapping when I do my 9k mile oil change.

- Regarding can you tune the solenoid out and then just remove it completely. Yes, you absolutely can do that. For me, I am not performing any tuning on the car while it is under factory warranty. So, keeping the solenoid plugged in and secured out of the way ensures I don't get a CEL while maintaining a stock tune.

Great, detailed video, thanks Phillip! So, this is worrying, the bypass valve is AHEAD of the oil filter, could trap break-in metals which might make it stuck Open, bypasses oil flow to the engine?
And you confirmed no hard or soft codes thrown, but I'm still under warranty. If the tech sees my solenoid has been bypassed will that cause any issues? I would guess not.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

And you confirmed no hard or soft codes thrown, but I'm still under warranty. If the tech sees my solenoid has been bypassed will that cause any issues? I would guess not.

The tech has to document everything that is out of place. Only if theyre looking for it, or happen to see it when you take it in for service. If its documented, this would deny warranty claim with engine repairs.

Dont do it if youre concerned about your warranty.