Braking in milage

[Proto Z]

Fuck a break in. Full send it from the moment you drive off the lot.

You want everything to seat properly and there's no better way than to run it hard. Bang the rev limiter through multiple full throttle runs. Hammer the brakes (just don't sit on them if you come to a complete stop). Run it and run it HARD. Change your oil multiple times. As soon as you get home from the dealer, 50 miles later, 100 miles later, 1000 miles later, then at 3k and every 3k after.

My dealership were pretty clear when I picked it up - they check a number of things on the first diagnostic (1000km - whatever that is in miles...) and sending it straight out of the lot will void warranty.
Maybe that doesn't mean as much to everyone else as it does to me, but I don't want to ruin my chances of warranty claims given the recalls they've already done on transmission...

 

[bboypuertoroc]

My dealership were pretty clear when I picked it up - they check a number of things on the first diagnostic (1000km - whatever that is in miles...) and sending it straight out of the lot will void warranty.
Maybe that doesn't mean as much to everyone else as it does to me, but I don't want to ruin my chances of warranty claims given the recalls they've already done on transmission...

Your dealer is full of shit. Break in isn't required, and isn't required for your warranty. If it were, it would clearly be stated and not "recommended". If they really gave a shit the manual would mandate multiple oil changes those first few hundred miles instead of simply adding oil. If you want the maximum performance out of your engine I would HIGHLY suggest a full send break in. Why you wouldn't want to make sure things are sitting right above 4000rpm is beyond me.

 

[Proto Z]

Your dealer is full of shit. Break in isn't required, and isn't required for your warranty. If it were, it would clearly be stated and not "recommended". If they really gave a shit the manual would mandate multiple oil changes those first few hundred miles instead of simply adding oil. If you want the maximum performance out of your engine I would HIGHLY suggest a full send break in. Why you wouldn't want to make sure things are sitting right above 4000rpm is beyond me.

You do you mate.
I personally have no interest in pushing an engine hard straight out of the dealership. There is no empirical evidence to suggest it does anything of benefit to the engine, but if any of the tolerances were out, it could cause significant harm.

These aren't using mineral oils from factory like the good old days,.

 

[bboypuertoroc]

You do you mate.
I personally have no interest in pushing an engine hard straight out of the dealership. There is no empirical evidence to suggest it does anything of benefit to the engine, but if any of the tolerances were out, it could cause significant harm.

These aren't using mineral oils from factory like the good old days,.

You do you, boo boo.

If any of the tolerances were out, it wouldn't matter if you full send out the lot or 1,200 miles later. If there's gonna be an issue, there's gonna be an issue. I prefer to do things like getting the best possible seating for my piston rings in a high performance engine.

Completely relevant personal experience. I full sent my Evo when it was under 5 miles (started at 2.3 miles, to be exact) during my test drive. Multiple times. Multiple full throttle runs to 130mph+. Launched it a few times as well. Long story short, I dynoed higher than other IXs stock for stock or similarly modded, ran faster trap speeds, and had NO mechanical issues for 118k miles. Similar stories with people I know that did fill send break ins.

As far as oil is concerned, it doesn't matter if it's trash dino oil or the best synthetic. A new engine needs multiple oil changes. Just look at the oil after 50 miles and you'll see why.

 

[Evolution]

Coming from someone who builds engines for a living, full send that thing! Our typical break in is 1 heat cycle keeping the rpm between 2000-4000. Think of it how you would break in a flat tappet cam. Dump oil, fill with fresh oil and put it on the dyno for lots of full throttle pulls. Change oil again once off the dyno. Break in is now complete.

 

[Loco38SUP]

Coming from someone who builds engines for a living, full send that thing! Our typical break in is 1 heat cycle keeping the rpm between 2000-4000. Think of it how you would break in a flat tappet cam. Dump oil, fill with fresh oil and put it on the dyno for lots of full throttle pulls. Change oil again once off the dyno. Break in is now complete.

Built race engines take a different path than factory engines. The life expectancy can be 3-5 pulls at the track. John Forces would rebuild his engine every 1/4 mile track run.

-RJM

 

[Evolution]

Built race engines take a different path than factory engines. The life expectancy can be 3-5 pulls at the track. John Forces would rebuild his engine every 1/4 mile track run.

-RJM

I never mentioned anything about a full race engine... We build stock replacement engines as well as 2500hp stuff. Break in is the exact same between the 2. Rings are the only real things that you break in and both race engines and standard factory engines have rings. Only difference is the material used and how rough the final hone is. To do that accurately, you need a profilometer so you can measure the "Ra" to make sure it matches the ring material you are using ensuring a correct break in.

BTW - I saw the Force girls over the weekend and the inside of their engine between rounds. Nitro powered cars are just awesome and not something you can compare to any other engine.