Anyone seen these hood risers & know how to get them down. Spun the Z on wet roads and caught back wheel on curb. These popped the hood open - can’t open or close hood

[RadzShadow]

This is from the provider directly ... it isn't available and doesn't work for RZ34. So ... I'd like the pinouts to put the $.10 resistor in to remove any error lights on the dash.

 

[up4speed]

This is from the provider directly ... it isn't available and doesn't work for RZ34.

They are probably just reading the description online which obviously doesn't include the RZ34, and saying it doesn't work. Maybe they haven't tested it yet perhaps. There are a few of us on this forum that can vouch that they in fact do work. I wouldn't lie about saying that I installed them on my car, and not getting any error messages. What would be my motivation to do that?

It's probably a similar situation to the AWE exhaust. When I shopped for it, the site didn't say it fit the Nismo. I called and spoke to them, and they said that it may work, and see no reason why it wouldn't, but they can't list it on their site because they never tested it on an actual Nismo,, so they didn't want to list it as compatible. After trying it, I can also confirm that the AWE exhaust also works on our cars, even though the site says it doesn't (not sure if they added it's compatibility yet).

 

[RadzShadow]

I don't have a Nismo ... the site does say it is compatible with Nismo, but not the RZ34 specifically. $200 is almost 10 cases of beer ...
I'd rather have the beer ...
I don't want to be the tester for $200 and find it doesn't work. I would rather yank them out and have the warning/red light on the dash and buy a cheap resistor to bypass the ECU.
I just need to find the pinout diagram and ... I'll do it myself.

 

[up4speed]

I don't have a Nismo ... the site does say it is compatible with Nismo, but not the RZ34 specifically. $200 is almost 10 cases of beer ...
I'd rather have the beer ...

I don't see where it says Nismo. I only see that they say it's compatible with GTR.
But I would be shocked if the part worked with the RZ34 Nismo, and it didn't work with the regular RZ34. I don't like to bet on things, but I think that would be something I would bet on, lol.
I don't blame you for not wanting to spend money on stupid resisters to avoid something that probably won't happen. I opted to buy them because I track the car, and felt that it was too easy to create a situation where they may pop, so I didn't want to take the chance because it will be a very expensive situation if they pop. $140 vs several k seemed like a no brainer to me.

 

[NocturnalEmber]

These hood popper delete kits from Nengun likely work just fine. I haven't tried them myself on my car, but from a manufacturing standpoint it would be ineffective cost wise to have these unique to each model car.

It's just a two pin connector that goes into the body harness of the car and it holds what is likely a 10 cent resistor. Nengun saying it doesn't fit is likely just looking at a fit guide online rather than basing their reply on practical experience.

An easy example is buying tires. I can spec the Nismo sized 285 rears on my performance trim; The fit guide says 275's as that's what the performance came with in the rears, but 285's will fit just the same.

Now, if someone wants to save quite a bit of money on this delete kit, you can easily just put a resistor into the plug and seal it off to prevent water/etc from intruding.

The big question however, is the specifics on what resistor you would need.

If someone is kind enough to take the case off their kit they got from Nengun that would likely clear up the specifics.

 

[RadzShadow]

I get that, tracking the car you are going to hit the curbs on the track ... fun as hell lol! I live where some of the roads ... straight line driving to work ... could set them off just hitting rough roads.
Envious of being able to run on a track, we have nothing here that I'd feel comfortable running the car in.
I do have a couple of videos from last weekend when I let it rip for the first time at 1700+ miles.
I'd like to remove them, have no alarms on dash and no worries of them deploying for little bumps in rough roads.
People have had to wait for months to get replacements ... I just want them gone so I don't have to think about.
Love this car and this forum, being honest and open with respect to all.
@up4speed if you find something to convince me to spend the money, feel free to DM me.
I am open to learning anything anyone can enhance my Z experience.

 

[RadzShadow]

These hood popper delete kits from Nengun likely work just fine. I haven't tried them myself on my car, but from a manufacturing standpoint it would be ineffective cost wise to have these unique to each model car.

It's just a two pin connector that goes into the body harness of the car and it holds what is likely a 10 cent resistor. Nengun saying it doesn't fit is likely just looking at a fit guide online rather than basing their reply on practical experience.

An easy example is buying tires. I can spec the Nismo sized 285 rears on my performance trim; The fit guide says 275's as that's what the performance came with in the rears, but 285's will fit just the same.

Now, if someone wants to save quite a bit of money on this delete kit, you can easily just put a resistor into the plug and seal it off to prevent water/etc from intruding.

The big question however, is the specifics on what resistor you would need.

If someone is kind enough to take the case off their kit they got from Nengun that would likely clear up the specifics.

AMEN

 

[RadzShadow]

My current mindset ... I will remove them, let the alarms be there until I find the pinout diagram to disable.
My Bachelors degree was in Electronics ... I have no problem bypassing the circuit, heat shrinking after testing and then wrapping it all in heat shrink again.

 

[up4speed]

I get that, tracking the car you are going to hit the curbs on the track ... fun as hell lol! I live where some of the roads ... straight line driving to work ... could set them off just hitting rough roads.
Envious of being able to run on a track, we have nothing here that I'd feel comfortable running the car in.
I do have a couple of videos from last weekend when I let it rip for the first time at 1700+ miles.
I'd like to remove them, have no alarms on dash and no worries of them deploying for little bumps in rough roads.
People have had to wait for months to get replacements ... I just want them gone so I don't have to think about.
Love this car and this forum, being honest and open with respect to all.
@up4speed if you find something to convince me to spend the money, feel free to DM me.
I am open to learning anything anyone can enhance my Z experience.

I don't really have any info to convince you. They really only eliminate an error light, so no real detriment if you don't mind looking at the light. If you wanted to save the money, It's really about your comfort level and willingness to research and figure out the proper resistance, and your ability to seal the plug so you don't have moisture/corrosion issues in the future.
All that said, in your situation, it's probably a very slim chance that they would pop. Of course there's always a chance, so it's up to you regarding your risk tolerance. To be honest, if I didn't track it, I probably would have just left it stock.
If you are going to install a resistor, just make sure that you remove the negative battery cable and let the car fall asleep (approx. 10 min), before disconnecting the factory connector from the poppers. If you don't, you will get an error message even if you install a resistor. The resistor needs to be added before you restore power by putting the negative cable back on.

If I'm correct, if the light illuminates, a simple OBD code scanner will not be able to clear the light. A Launch or Autel scanner with the proper Nissan specific software, should be able to, but not sure.

 

[RadzShadow]

I don't really have any info to convince you. They really only eliminate an error light, so no real detriment if you don't mind looking at the light. If you wanted to save the money, It's really about your comfort level and willingness to research and figure out the proper resistance, and your ability to seal the plug so you don't have moisture/corrosion issues in the future.
All that said, in your situation, it's probably a very slim chance that they would pop. Of course there's always a chance, so it's up to you regarding your risk tolerance. To be honest, if I didn't track it, I probably would have just left it stock.
If you are going to install a resistor, just make sure that you remove the negative battery cable and let the car fall asleep (approx. 10 min), before disconnecting the factory connector from the poppers. If you don't, you will get an error message even if you install a resistor. The resistor needs to be added before you restore power by putting the negative cable back on.

If I'm correct, if the light illuminates, a simple OBD code scanner will not be able to clear the light. A Launch or Autel scanner with the proper Nissan specific software, should be able to, but not sure.

That is exactly what my research found too. My thought process is ... if they pop ... it is months to get a replacement and Nissan wants a dealer to do the work ... for $200+/hr for a $.10 resistor.
I will pull them out, put them on Ebay for the people that don't get it ...
A pinout diagram, and I can fix in under an hour.
The only reason these things exist is because people in the US are too stupid and will sue for anything.
I envy Germany for the pedestrian laws, if you walk contrary to the light and get hit ... it is YOUR fault, not the driver.
I have been driving for more than 40 years and never ... hit a pedestrian, so this is nonsensecial bullshit to even have this system installed.
If anyone has the pinouts to this or to the ASE to the Bose Subwoofer ... Please, PLEASE post so we can rid our cars of the BS

 

[Supremekai]

That is exactly what my research found too. My thought process is ... if they pop ... it is months to get a replacement and Nissan wants a dealer to do the work ... for $200+/hr for a $.10 resistor.
I will pull them out, put them on Ebay for the people that don't get it ...
A pinout diagram, and I can fix in under an hour.
The only reason these things exist is because people in the US are too stupid and will sue for anything.
I envy Germany for the pedestrian laws, if you walk contrary to the light and get hit ... it is YOUR fault, not the driver.
I have been driving for more than 40 years and never ... hit a pedestrian, so this is nonsensecial bullshit to even have this system installed.
If anyone has the pinouts to this or to the ASE to the Bose Subwoofer ... Please, PLEASE post so we can rid our cars of the BS

Especially when there's consumer trucks with the hood almost tall as an average adult be legal on the road.

 

[Meg_Z]

I don't really have any info to convince you. They really only eliminate an error light, so no real detriment if you don't mind looking at the light. If you wanted to save the money, It's really about your comfort level and willingness to research and figure out the proper resistance, and your ability to seal the plug so you don't have moisture/corrosion issues in the future.
All that said, in your situation, it's probably a very slim chance that they would pop. Of course there's always a chance, so it's up to you regarding your risk tolerance. To be honest, if I didn't track it, I probably would have just left it stock.
If you are going to install a resistor, just make sure that you remove the negative battery cable and let the car fall asleep (approx. 10 min), before disconnecting the factory connector from the poppers. If you don't, you will get an error message even if you install a resistor. The resistor needs to be added before you restore power by putting the negative cable back on.

If I'm correct, if the light illuminates, a simple OBD code scanner will not be able to clear the light. A Launch or Autel scanner with the proper Nissan specific software, should be able to, but not sure.

I don't really have any info to convince you. They really only eliminate an error light, so no real detriment if you don't mind looking at the light. If you wanted to save the money, It's really about your comfort level and willingness to research and figure out the proper resistance, and your ability to seal the plug so you don't have moisture/corrosion issues in the future.
All that said, in your situation, it's probably a very slim chance that they would pop. Of course there's always a chance, so it's up to you regarding your risk tolerance. To be honest, if I didn't track it, I probably would have just left it stock.
If you are going to install a resistor, just make sure that you remove the negative battery cable and let the car fall asleep (approx. 10 min), before disconnecting the factory connector from the poppers. If you don't, you will get an error message even if you install a resistor. The resistor needs to be added before you restore power by putting the negative cable back on.

If I'm correct, if the light illuminates, a simple OBD code scanner will not be able to clear the light. A Launch or Autel scanner with the proper Nissan specific software, should be able to, but not sure.

I would like to give you just a little advice don’t go back and forth with folks like this poster. He posted asking for information and you provided your actual experience installing this product in your Z. It seems like he wants someone to do the leg work on figuring out what pins and resistors to utilize. If I wanted to design my own I would utilize trial and error method to figure it out then post the results here. I’m not bothered about the poppers, but if I were I wouldn’t worry about saving a few dollars and just order the kit.

 

[up4speed]

I would like to give you just a little advice don’t go back and forth with folks like this poster. He posted asking for information and you provided your actual experience installing this product in your Z. It seems like he wants someone to do the leg work on figuring out what pins and resistors to utilize. If I wanted to design my own I would utilize trial and error method to figure it out then post the results here. I’m not bothered about the poppers, but if I were I wouldn’t worry about saving a few dollars and just order the kit.

I was just trying to make sure that misinformation wasn't being spread