New Audio Build log

[wykdtr0n]

I spent the weekend pulling trim and running wires to replace the factory Bose system. I was originally going to wait a while to source some better components, but I have a 2 way system that was originally intended for my 99 4runner that I'm going to put in the Z for now until I decide what direction I ultimately want to go. Having the foundation flushed out will make future adaptions fairly easy, I hope. I want to thank everyone who has contributed to the knowledge base here in the various audio build threads.

My components:

Helix M Four DSP 4x100w RMS Class D
Helix M One X 1030w RMS @1ohm
Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKii 6.5" 90W RMS 2-Way Component Speakers
Stereo Integrity SQL 12 Series 2 1000w RMS

For now I plan on running the tweeters in the dash locations, although I'm certain in the future I'll opt for a 3 way setup with mids in the dash and tweeters at the a-pillar. I'm uncertain how well the Morel tweeters will perform off-axis, so I may end up replacing them sooner rather than later. I don't plan on running rear speakers, I'll disconnect the factory rears once everything else goes in.

The sub is in a 1 cubic foot sealed box for now. It fits in the trunk, eventually I'll opt for a hidden sub setup similar to what Mr. Mac has provided us with.

My main power wire is 2 gauge extreme from batterycablesusa. It's pretty beefy and I wasn't certain how easy it would be to run, but it fit easy enough with the trim pulled and the seats out. I was pleasantly surprised with how flexible it is. A 200amp ANL fuse set up next to the battery, run through the rubber grommet behind the battery. I haven't attached the power to the battery yet, Mr. Mac indicates he used the empty threaded stud on the positive fusible link block, but I'm not 100% certain that bolt is unfused and I want to insure I won't run the risk of blowing anything there since my system is running a little hotter than Mr. Mac's. For now the wire is safely zip tied away from the positive/negative terminals. Also the asshole that installed the gps tracker on the car absolutely destroyed the battery terminal connectors.

Speaker wires are 14 gauge to the components, 10 gauge for the subwoofer. All KnuKonceptz Ultra Flex. I'm one of those heathens who feels fine running the speaker wire right next to their power wire, so I have two sets of speaker wire running down each side of the vehicle. I probably should have run 3 in case I go to a 3 way active setup in the future, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. For now, the wires are zip tied up under the foot well trim panel, I haven't run them through the dash or doors yet since the door will require drilling holes in the wire plugs and I was running out of time.

I haven't put any sound deadening materials in yet. I know that should be the first thing I do, but I'm undecided between using the Kilmat I have on hand or getting some resonix CLD squares.

Next step will be setting up my amp board, for now it'll just go under the trunk mat in the spare tire well, nothing fancy as it'll be temporary until I get a hidden sub box in place.

Videos I found useful:

Removing the Nissan Z seats -
Removing rear trunk trim -
Removing door panels -
Removing battery trim -

 

[Exquisite_Red]

Nice! I have the SQL-10 in mine and absolutely love it, good choice.

 

[wykdtr0n]

Nice! I have the SQL-10 in mine and absolutely love it, good choice.

I bought it over a year ago and still have yet to hear it! I'm stoked to get this finished.

 

[wykdtr0n]

Amp rack is cut out and test fit. I should be able to get it wired this weekend. It's janky but will work for now. I also broke down and bought the Stereo Integrity M28 and TM65 MkIV to use instead of the Morels. I wanted to go with Audiofrog's GB60 and gb10/ or 25 but the GB60's are out of stock everywhere and apparently being replaced with a new model.

 

[RHE2026]

Since the Bose woofer in my Z is definitely lacking balance or capability can I improve the sub with a EQ from an app if I don’t want to swap the amp,woofer etc ? Also I noticed how really lacks what my 2005 350 had stock with its 6 CD changer. Also does the new Z have a powered or passive sub. Thx

 

[wykdtr0n]

Since the Bose woofer in my Z is definitely lacking balance or capability can I improve the sub with a EQ from an app if I don’t want to swap the amp,woofer etc ? Also I noticed how really lacks what my 2005 350 had stock with its 6 CD changer. Also does the new Z have a powered or passive sub. Thx

The stock Bose subwoofer is an active, powered subwoofer. It gets a signal from the stock amplifier located near the top left of my trunk pic. You can improve the stock Bose sub performance with an EQ app, but it's still limited in it's range. It'll get louder but it stays pretty tight and tends to lack the fullness of more quality subs.

 

[wykdtr0n]

Amp rack is in and fully wired. It's messy, but all wire connections are either ferruled with heat shrink tubing or otherwise appropriate terminal connections. I enjoy running wires in 12v applications and the satisfaction that comes with a well terminated wire

I attached the 2awg ground wire to the stock amp bolt that @JChandler82 utilized in his thread here:

https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/basic-budget-diy-subwoofer-install-anyone-can-do-it.9321/

After using a wire wheel to clear all the paint off, a used a multimeter to test restistance and confirmed it was a good ground, so I applied dielectric grease and reattached the stock amp over it.

I tapped into the front left/front right signals just before the stock amp as Mr. Mac indicates in this post:

https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/factory-audio-system-questions.2432/post-73282

I don't solder well so I used solder crimp connectors, then used heat shrink tubing over the top of them and further wrapped it with wire loom tape before plugging it back into the stock amp.

Since I haven't installed new speakers yet, I turned everything on to confirm the stock signal to the Bose amp was still working, and everything came through clear. Once I finish running speaker wires to the door and dash locations and replace the factory speakers, I'll be fully bypassing the stock amp on the front left/right channels. Unfortunately, getting this much done took way longer than I expected so I won't have a chance to finish up the speaker wires until tomorrow probably.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

Great build. Cant wait to see the finished look

 

[JChandler82]

Looking good

 

[wykdtr0n]

I had time to pull my door panel off and get one speaker wire run through the door wiring loom. I was worried about this as my hands aren't exactly small and drilling out the plugs is a little intimidating, but the Z plugs seem to have a lot more room than the 370z. The door side plug has an open space to run wire, so no drilling needed. The body side plug needed drilling but there is plenty of room.

It's a pretty intensive process, having an extra set of smaller hands would have been helpful getting the plugs reattached and the body side plug in and out. I managed it on my own although my hand is pretty scraped up.

This video that Mr Mac shared has the basics of everything you need to get it done: