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Advise on New Shoes for my 24 Nismo!

OptionZero

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Thanks much for the info. Appreciated.

I really like the NISMO LMRS1 wheels, and do understand now what you mean about their available offsets not being quite enough for perfect fitment appearance, but wouldn't a 5mm, possibly 10mm spacer correct that? I realize spacers are not ideal, but do you see any issues with that solution for dialing in the LMRS1s for someone such as self who does not track, but does do spirited driving around countryside? Do like a nice flush fitment with as minimum fender clearance as possible while still maintaining drivability. Tires for this setup I'm thinking Nitto NT555 G2 255/40ZR19 (FRONT) and NT555RII 305/35R19 (REAR)

Also, regarding your SPL recommendation; Would you mind advising exactly which items you're advising for dialing in alignment just right from their website? https://www.splparts.com/z-z34-2023/
As APEX wheels said above - spacers can be done, and they're safe, and they work. No more than 5 mm for slip ons, otherwise extended lugs or full bolt on ones.

BUT

If you're paying $4K for wheels, why not just....get wheels that fit? I mean, why would I want to spend more money on stuff to make the stuff I just paid for work?

As for the SPL stuff:
Here's their catalog

For the FRONTS - R/Z34 has no camber adjustment from the factory because Nissan is lazy, so you need the front upper control arm. This will provide camber and caster adjustment.

For the REARS - currently, camber and toe are adjusted (about 1 degree of range) via eccentric bolts. You want to replace them with:

1) Toe Arm (Adjusts toe)
2) If you have true type coilovers, you want a camber arm; if you have divorced type coilovers, you want their mid-link. Either way this arrm adjusts camber.
3) Traction arm. This is a third arm to adjust after the other two are set. Best explanation is think of a triangle - change one arm length everything else changes. Traction arm will give alignment guy the range to set everything properly. When changing the length of the other two arms it may also affect how the wheel sits within the wheel well; the third arm being adjustable means you keep your wheel centered
4) Eccentric lockout bolts. Changes your stock eccentric bolts to bolts that no longer rotate. you want to replace these because you are no longer using the eccentric bolts and dont want them to move anymore. They can slip on their own over time.

For some of these arms SPL offers type designs. The more expensive version is for track use and does the same thing, its just meant to take more abuse.

I understand there is some sticker shock for those who may not have done full suspension upgrades before. Please understand this is the proper way to lower your car and fit wheels for the best setups in appearance without hurting useability.

SPL Parts is track tested on all kinds of platforms and they have excellent customer services. They are also based in the USA (Texas) and will help you with whatever you need if theres an issue.

Full adjustment is needed for our platforms because our platform has MASSIVE wheel wells that can fit lots of wheel/tire, but Nissan handcuffed customers by providing no front adjustment and minimal rear adjustment of alignment. once you unlock that, you can do basically whatever you want, as you can see from the examples above.

Lastly, don't fear camber. Camber is good. Track cars run 3 or 4 degrees of camber because it helps the car turn. Camber causes UNEVEN wear, but not necessarily increased or faster wear.
Toe is the killer. Toe will destroy tires when its out of spec.
 

Suzuyabot

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Just as a heads up, you really want to keep in mind what it really takes to run a lot of these fitments.

If you're just throwing wheels and tires on a stock suspension / stock alignment car, then you could have VERY different results than what is being shown in some of these posts.

For example, when we were doing early test fitting on these cars, we tried to see what kind of square setups we could get away with.

c749b334411b4812e6c27cc7d3f44e4397e9f732-5730x3820.jpg

3f0e178c68e7c6f74c39f2545a09cc14375e3c9c-5730x3820.jpg


This specific car is on 18x10.5" ET15 square. Now the tires are 305s, but you can still see that it's Poke City up front. Bone stock car otherwise.

So when you see some of these recommendations with similar size wheels/offset, wider wheels, lower offsets, etc. just make sure you're getting the full picture - tire sizing, tire model, and suspension alignment are extremely important. Also make sure to check if there's any fender modification required as well.

Nissan Z cars across a lot of generations tend to be able to fit a lot of wheel and tire without a lot of work, but there's always a limit.

If you're just looking to put wheels on an otherwise stock car, the 19x10.5" ET25 / ET15 combo you're looking at can work.

The fronts will poke without camber and a 265mm tire will be visibly stretched. Offset wise you probably want to be about 5-7mm more inboard on a 10.5-inch wheel or a 10-inch wheel with a similar ET25 offset.

If you're married to white 19-inch Advan GTs, then you're kinda stuck. If you're open to alternatives, a 19x10" ET25-28 front / 19x10.5" ET15 rear with 275mm and 295mm tires respectively would be my go to.
Will the situation be the same on Nismo? Trying to find BBS LM wheels for the rear, and the only options in stock I found are 20x10.5 +35 or 20x11 +10. Does the second one look available for a totally stock Nismo suspension?
 

Nis Mo Z

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The closest wheels on the market to a perfectly flush setup, with a 1.2 inch drop, an alignment and NOT RUBBING on the Z Nismo is my Apex VS5RS. Plus I tried experimenting with 3 sets of spacers I have to make them look better without rubbing in the rear

The 15 mm spacer rubbed, I didn’t try my 20mm because that’s insane but my 5mm spacers worked with no rubbing, however my rear tires are 285 oem. When I switch to 295 or 305 the 5 mm spacers will likely have to come off.

The front also has 5mm spacers added to it but I think 15mm would work if you keep the stock 255 width tires. I will be going 275 width when I replace the tires.


Apex VS5RS

19x9.5 +18
19.10x5 +15

Judging by the Apex numbers if a person kept the stock Nismo tire sizes but is lowered an inch I believe a

19x9.5 + 3
19x10.5 + 10

Would be perfect fitment with no spacers but if you have to use spacers get a 5mm spacer and a wheel with close to perfect offsets for a slight drop Z Nismo like the VS5RS.

IMG_3429.webp
 
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OptionZero

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Will the situation be the same on Nismo? Trying to find BBS LM wheels for the rear, and the only options in stock I found are 20x10.5 +35 or 20x11 +10. Does the second one look available for a totally stock Nismo suspension?
20s are going to look goofy on stock ride height fwiw
 

OptionZero

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Really? Do you think it should be at least lowered or camber adjusted?
Proper stance can only achieved combining a lower height, custom alignment to fit the wheel/tire, and aggressive wheel/tire.

Going to 20s will require a lower profile tire to maintain rolling diameter (affects speedo).

Coils
Adjustable arms
wheels
tires

gotta combine them to look good
 

Suzuyabot

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Proper stance can only achieved combining a lower height, custom alignment to fit the wheel/tire, and aggressive wheel/tire.

Going to 20s will require a lower profile tire to maintain rolling diameter (affects speedo).

Coils
Adjustable arms
wheels
tires

gotta combine them to look good
The one set that shop is offering is 20x10 +30 / 20x11 +10. Tires are planned to be 265/35 front and 295/30 rear. Just not sure about how customizable the OEM nismo suspension is.
 

OptionZero

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The one set that shop is offering is 20x10 +30 / 20x11 +10. Tires are planned to be 265/35 front and 295/30 rear. Just not sure about how customizable the OEM nismo suspension is.
zero adjustment in front
About a degree of camber and tenthish of toe of rear

thats why you need adjustble arms and coils to achieve good fitment

rears are aggressive
Could go further in front
Camber needed

also, your Nismo fender trim is mounted with clips that protrude inward. Beware it reduces clearance
 

Suzuyabot

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zero adjustment in front
About a degree of camber and tenthish of toe of rear

thats why you need adjustble arms and coils to achieve good fitment

rears are aggressive
Could go further in front
Camber needed

also, your Nismo fender trim is mounted with clips that protrude inward. Beware it reduces clearance
Ahh, that's kinda stuck in this situation. No stock anywhere for 20x10.5/20ish spec. Maybe just get a set of camber arms first.
 

OptionZero

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Suzuyabot

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ok, i see it now

https://bbs-japan.co.jp/en/products/1142/

Its nice when they're stocked locally but you may be stuck doing the special order thing like for so many JDM things

20x10.5 +20 and 20x11 +10 is gonna look good
True, I'd rather go with some custom wheel companies than wait for 6-8 months. Just gonna check some adjustments for the rear to fit.
 

Suzuyabot

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Contact this company
https://sensei6.com/
They build wheels, they should have all the official components
See if they can build you the specs you want
Thanks for the info. I've checked that website before. Sadly for LM, in our bolt pattern, there are not many choices. I might just go with the set I mentioned. See how the fitment goes and adjust. Just consider it as an experiment for other people on the same platform.
 
 






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