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AMS upgrades resulted engine fast warm up!!

F6674

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Hi,
I have purchased AMS following parts:-
1- AMS performance heat exchanger.
2- AMS performance cold air intake.
4- AMS performance VR30 intercoolers.
5- AMS performance VR30DDTT street lower down pipes.
6- JB4 without tuning.

I installed all of these parts into my brand new Nissan Z400 2024 pro tech. Mileage now is only 2000mile.

After installing these parts, i noticed that engine oil temp is getting hot very fast reaching mid gauge(71-89C*). Also water temperature is reaching 86-107C*. This wasn’t the case before installing these parts into my Z. What could be wrong?!

I also noticed that if AC is on the temperatures more likely to be stable at lower temps.
Also when driving slowly at a constant speed of (50-60mile) temp is study at low temps.

Can anyone please help me understand why this is happening?
Note: I already did radiator bleeding.
Thank you
 
OP
OP

F6674

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el mágico

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Hi,
I have purchased AMS following parts:-
1- AMS performance heat exchanger.
2- AMS performance cold air intake.
4- AMS performance VR30 intercoolers.
5- AMS performance VR30DDTT street lower down pipes.
6- JB4 without tuning.

I installed all of these parts into my brand new Nissan Z400 2024 pro tech. Mileage now is only 2000mile.

After installing these parts, i noticed that engine oil temp is getting hot very fast reaching mid gauge(71-89C*). Also water temperature is reaching 86-107C*. This wasn’t the case before installing these parts into my Z. What could be wrong?!

I also noticed that if AC is on the temperatures more likely to be stable at lower temps.
Also when driving slowly at a constant speed of (50-60mile) temp is study at low temps.

Can anyone please help me understand why this is happening?
Note: I already did radiator bleeding.
Thank you
I'm no mechanic, but I swapped my heatX like you, just with the czp version. With that said, did you use a vacuum refill when you bled the system? If not how did you bleed and refill the cooling system?

Maybe there's a chance air is trapped? I'll let those that know more that I based on what you wrote here chime in. Cheers!
 

Hernandooo

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As mentioned above, may have air pockets trapped in your inter-cooling system, which is a no bueno.

May have to redo the process again properly with a vacuum fill. After that, run the heater on full blast, and check your coolant levels to see if they keep dropping.

Once the coolant stops dropping, and your engine & coolant temps maintains a constant safe level, you should be good
 
OP
OP

F6674

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I'm no mechanic, but I swapped my heatX like you, just with the czp version. With that said, did you use a vacuum refill when you bled the system? If not how did you bleed and refill the cooling system?

Maybe there's a chance air is trapped? I'll let those that know more that I based on what you wrote here chime in. Cheers!
Yes used vacuum refill in a professional workshop. cheers!
 
OP
OP

F6674

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As mentioned above, may have air pockets trapped in your inter-cooling system, which is a no bueno.

May have to redo the process again properly with a vacuum fill. After that, run the heater on full blast, and check your coolant levels to see if they keep dropping.

Once the coolant stops dropping, and your engine & coolant temps maintains a constant safe level, you should be good
I will try again
 
OP
OP

F6674

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Done with no use. Still same situation. I even installed extra SPAL 10” fan working direct after starting the car, it did help a little.
 

Who.Am.Eye.2716

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When you run your AC or Heater, and the temp needle goes down, that's a sign you have air in the system. Check your reservoir and see if youre losing coolant. Fill as needed as this could be a sign that there is air slowly releasing. If I had to guess, the intercoolers, which is the highest point has air in it.

These engines are hard to bleed. There are 2 reservoirs. 1 is for the HeatX and Intercooler, and the 2nd is for the engine. Did you bleed both?

When you vacuum the cooling system, are you checking to see if the pressure holds steady for a couple minutes at 20-25psi? If the pressure isnt holding, and the psi is dropping, there is a leak and air will be introduced into the system when filling.
 
OP
OP

F6674

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Many thanks for your support
I will check the reservoir to see of am loosing coolant.
will check the intercoolers also
Yes I bleed both twice in a professional workshop
I will ask the workshop to check the pressure as you mentioned

my plan is to take the car to workshop to fit Mishemoto Radiator and the same time open and reinstall the whole system. But this tine in an AMS specialized workshop.
fingers crossed 🤞🏻
Will update soon
 

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I've noticed in my Z when I turn the ac on one of the fans will turn on in the front and my coolant temperature begins to drop. This is how I cool the engine down at idle just before shutting it off after a long drive especially in warmer weather.
 
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F6674

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Same here
 

KelvinllMelvin

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I was thinking of installing lower downpipes as well but didn’t want to void warranty as most forums I’ve read said it’s highly recommended to have it tuned. Idk if I should install one and have a jb4. Anyone have more insight running this way like OP is?
 

Who.Am.Eye.2716

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I've noticed in my Z when I turn the ac on one of the fans will turn on in the front and my coolant temperature begins to drop. This is how I cool the engine down at idle just before shutting it off after a long drive especially in warmer weather.
I tried that and I didnt notice any difference in coolant temp from not having AC on.

What are you seeing? Im seeing a fluctuation of 179-190 with or without AC
 

Thefunk

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I tried that and I didnt notice any difference in coolant temp from not having AC on.

What are you seeing? Im seeing a fluctuation of 179-190 with or without AC
Were you idling? I don't remember the exact temps but I remember seeing the oil cool down more rapidly with the ac on vs off.
 
 






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