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What did you do with your Z today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

FSUZ33

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Very cool, I'm waiting on an exhaust from Stillen, I got the competition one. I'm planning to get these intakes next. What other bolt on stuff do you have?
This is my first performance part.
- Nismo intake
- Mishimoto catch can
- Z1 undertray
- Z1 radiator cover/panel
- Extended wheel studs and 10mm spacers
 

chadhunley

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This is my first performance part.
- Nismo intake
- Mishimoto catch can
- Z1 undertray
- Z1 radiator cover/panel
- Extended wheel studs and 10mm spacers
I know a lot of people do catch cans on vr30's, just wondering if it's totally necessary?
 

FSUZ33

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I know a lot of people do catch cans on vr30's, just wondering if it's totally necessary?
Catch cans aren't necessary, but recommended on forced induction direct injection engines. Valve gunk buildup is a legitimate issue with DI, as the fuel doesn't flow over the intake valves. And with turbocharged and supercharged engines, which typically have higher crankcase pressure, more of the gas/oil from the crankcase ends up in the intake. It's not necessarily going to destroy an engine, but over time it decreases performance, and like cavities in your teeth, gunk buildup on valves doesn't heal itself. Once there, the only way to get rid of it is mechanically. Walnut shell blasting, chemical treatments, etc (may be others, idk). All of which are pretty costly, and intrusive enough that they're really not DIY unless you're super setup with tools/equipment and pretty knowledgeable about what TO do and what NOT to do.

It's common to hear, 'if it's so important they would be installed at the factory.' I have heard that manufacturers don't add them because it's one more maintenance item and they don't want to scare customers with that.

If you watch/listen to people like Eric, who tear apart engines for a living, you'll realize the cost-benefit of a catch can on a DI/FI engine like the VR30 is definitely in your favor. I've seen some look like 30% of the intake runner/valve volume is filled with crud at 80K miles. One may get that bad in 60K. One may not be that bad until 120K. Or maybe never get that bad. But even if it takes 120K miles to notice your car feels sluggish or is running a little rough, it was already pretty gunked up at 30K, you just didn't notice.

I say, why risk the potential performance/mileage loss and the potential for a costly service or two if you're keeping the car for a while for something that's a few hundred bucks and isn't a very difficult install.

...but that's just my opinion.
 

chadhunley

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Catch cans aren't necessary, but recommended on forced induction direct injection engines. Valve gunk buildup is a legitimate issue with DI, as the fuel doesn't flow over the intake valves. And with turbocharged and supercharged engines, which typically have higher crankcase pressure, more of the gas/oil from the crankcase ends up in the intake. It's not necessarily going to destroy an engine, but over time it decreases performance, and like cavities in your teeth, gunk buildup on valves doesn't heal itself. Once there, the only way to get rid of it is mechanically. Walnut shell blasting, chemical treatments, etc (may be others, idk). All of which are pretty costly, and intrusive enough that they're really not DIY unless you're super setup with tools/equipment and pretty knowledgeable about what TO do and what NOT to do.

It's common to hear, 'if it's so important they would be installed at the factory.' I have heard that manufacturers don't add them because it's one more maintenance item and they don't want to scare customers with that.

If you watch/listen to people like Eric, who tear apart engines for a living, you'll realize the cost-benefit of a catch can on a DI/FI engine like the VR30 is definitely in your favor. I've seen some look like 30% of the intake runner/valve volume is filled with crud at 80K miles. One may get that bad in 60K. One may not be that bad until 120K. Or maybe never get that bad. But even if it takes 120K miles to notice your car feels sluggish or is running a little rough, it was already pretty gunked up at 30K, you just didn't notice.

I say, why risk the potential performance/mileage loss and the potential for a costly service or two if you're keeping the car for a while for something that's a few hundred bucks and isn't a very difficult install.

...but that's just my opinion.
Thanks for the very informative assessment. I definitely agree it would be helpful on any DI engine for sure. Yeah, I've seen those videos by Eric really good stuff. Looks like catch cans are on my next mod list.
 

chadhunley

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Had the oil changed at Nissan today. My local dealer is great, this is my second oil change just hit 3k miles. Mobile one 5w30 and GTR filter, $62 with coupon!
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Cool, I think I'm going to get the GTR filter the next time. I guess no harm in using one. What exhaust is that under your car? Looks good!
 

chadhunley

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I think AWE Touring
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Which exhaust do you have on your Nismo? I just ordered the Stillen competition exhaust. I hope I made the right choice. It's only 2.5 and sounds the best with stock down pipes we will see.
 

kevinbonds

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The AWE is around 1k isn't it? I just spent that much on an after market exhaust myself. I'll be putting it on in the next couple of weeks.
I bought my exhaust second hand from a forum member; I got a great deal. I will say, even for the retail cost, for a full 3-inch exhaust, the price is fair. Fitment was perfect, and the car has a clean exotic sound.
 

chadhunley

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Ran the wipers today.

1000076371.webp


Also, update on the PS4S: they're awesome in the rain.
Did you personally try to slide it around a bit? I do it all the time in my old Titan in the rain, but not so much in the Z, too scared to crash the Z. Lol!
 
 






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