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Winter storage

24PZ

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David Montgomery

David Montgomery

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It shuts down most of the computers t maintain your battery, but using a battery tender helps a lot also.
So you can put it in shipping mode or put a battery tender on? I have a tender on my battery now. I assume it isn’t worth it to put it in shipping mode.
 

24PZ

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So you can put it in shipping mode or put a battery tender on? I have a tender on my battery now. I assume it isn’t worth it to put it in shipping mode.
Personally, I hook up a good quality battery maintainer and don’t worry about putting the car in shipping mode. My battery maintainer is more than capable of taking care of parasitic battery drain, and keeping the battery topped up.
 

Loco38SUP

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Don’t forget about fuel stabilizer.-RJM
 

MAPerformance_

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Has anyone ever put there car int shipping mode for winter storage?
I’ve stored my Z through winter a few times now, so here’s what I do. It’s not complicated, just the stuff that actually matters.


Before parking it:


  • Give it a good wash and dry, especially the undercarriage. Salt is brutal.
  • Wax or hit it with a paint sealant if you can—helps with moisture.
  • Clean the interior and don’t leave snacks or trash in there. Toss in some DampRid or moisture absorbers.

Mechanical stuff:


  • Fill the tank all the way and add fuel stabilizer. Drive it 10–15 min so it circulates.
  • I usually do an oil change before storage. Old oil just sits there with contaminants all winter.
  • Battery: either disconnect it and hook up a battery tender, or pull it and store it inside. Don’t just leave it connected and hope for the best.
  • Tires: bump the pressure up a bit. If you’ve got tire cradles or jack stands, even better. If not, try to roll the car a little every month to avoid flat spots.

Storage setup:


  • Garage is obviously best. Dry and ventilated is the goal.
  • Use a breathable car cover if it’s indoors. Outdoors… get a real car cover, not a tarp.
  • Don’t set the parking brake—pads can stick. Just leave it in gear (or Park).

Rodent warning (seriously):


  • Plug the exhaust tips with steel wool or mesh.
  • Peppermint oil / rodent deterrents around the car (not on paint).
  • Check wiring areas in spring—critters love modern insulation.

Things I don’t do anymore:


  • I don’t start it “once in a while.” That just adds condensation unless you’re driving it long enough to fully warm up.
  • I don’t leave it dirty until spring (learned that the hard way).

When spring hits:


  • Check tire pressure.
  • Pull the exhaust plugs.
  • Quick look for leaks or chewed wires.
  • Start it up and go for a proper drive.

That’s basically it. Doesn’t take long, and the car wakes up in spring like nothing happened. 👍
 

24PZ

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I’ve stored my Z through winter a few times now, so here’s what I do. It’s not complicated, just the stuff that actually matters.


Before parking it:


  • Give it a good wash and dry, especially the undercarriage. Salt is brutal.
  • Wax or hit it with a paint sealant if you can—helps with moisture.
  • Clean the interior and don’t leave snacks or trash in there. Toss in some DampRid or moisture absorbers.

Mechanical stuff:


  • Fill the tank all the way and add fuel stabilizer. Drive it 10–15 min so it circulates.
  • I usually do an oil change before storage. Old oil just sits there with contaminants all winter.
  • Battery: either disconnect it and hook up a battery tender, or pull it and store it inside. Don’t just leave it connected and hope for the best.
  • Tires: bump the pressure up a bit. If you’ve got tire cradles or jack stands, even better. If not, try to roll the car a little every month to avoid flat spots.

Storage setup:


  • Garage is obviously best. Dry and ventilated is the goal.
  • Use a breathable car cover if it’s indoors. Outdoors… get a real car cover, not a tarp.
  • Don’t set the parking brake—pads can stick. Just leave it in gear (or Park).

Rodent warning (seriously):


  • Plug the exhaust tips with steel wool or mesh.
  • Peppermint oil / rodent deterrents around the car (not on paint).
  • Check wiring areas in spring—critters love modern insulation.

Things I don’t do anymore:


  • I don’t start it “once in a while.” That just adds condensation unless you’re driving it long enough to fully warm up.
  • I don’t leave it dirty until spring (learned that the hard way).

When spring hits:


  • Check tire pressure.
  • Pull the exhaust plugs.
  • Quick look for leaks or chewed wires.
  • Start it up and go for a proper drive.

That’s basically it. Doesn’t take long, and the car wakes up in spring like nothing happened. 👍
All good advice!
 

Madkatt1

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Correct. My cover in the picture is an indoor cover. It’s custom fit, with no strings or bungee cords required. It was elastic sewn into the bottom perimeter of the cover and fits like a glove.
Where can I order this cover?
 

AV8OR

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Mine should be arriving this week.
 

AV8OR

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Got my OEM + design cover today. Took about 2.5 weeks to arrive. Looks good quality, very soft, and fits perfectly. Great indoor cover.

OEM + Design, premium, embroidered

20260211_153238.webp


20260211_150806.webp
 
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David Montgomery

David Montgomery

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2024 RZ34 Performance 6MT, 1981 S130 Turbo 5MT
I’ve stored my Z through winter a few times now, so here’s what I do. It’s not complicated, just the stuff that actually matters.


Before parking it:


  • Give it a good wash and dry, especially the undercarriage. Salt is brutal.
  • Wax or hit it with a paint sealant if you can—helps with moisture.
  • Clean the interior and don’t leave snacks or trash in there. Toss in some DampRid or moisture absorbers.

Mechanical stuff:


  • Fill the tank all the way and add fuel stabilizer. Drive it 10–15 min so it circulates.
  • I usually do an oil change before storage. Old oil just sits there with contaminants all winter.
  • Battery: either disconnect it and hook up a battery tender, or pull it and store it inside. Don’t just leave it connected and hope for the best.
  • Tires: bump the pressure up a bit. If you’ve got tire cradles or jack stands, even better. If not, try to roll the car a little every month to avoid flat spots.

Storage setup:


  • Garage is obviously best. Dry and ventilated is the goal.
  • Use a breathable car cover if it’s indoors. Outdoors… get a real car cover, not a tarp.
  • Don’t set the parking brake—pads can stick. Just leave it in gear (or Park).

Rodent warning (seriously):


  • Plug the exhaust tips with steel wool or mesh.
  • Peppermint oil / rodent deterrents around the car (not on paint).
  • Check wiring areas in spring—critters love modern insulation.

Things I don’t do anymore:


  • I don’t start it “once in a while.” That just adds condensation unless you’re driving it long enough to fully warm up.
  • I don’t leave it dirty until spring (learned that the hard way).

When spring hits:


  • Check tire pressure.
  • Pull the exhaust plugs.
  • Quick look for leaks or chewed wires.
  • Start it up and go for a proper drive.

That’s basically it. Doesn’t take long, and the car wakes up in spring like nothing happened. 👍
Oil settles over time. I always felt better putting in fresh oil before first spring start up. I figure oil coming from the top gets into the proper places much quicker than sucking it up through the sump. Is that incorrect thinking?
 

RadzShadow

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I live in the desert southwest of the US ... what is this 'winter storage' thing that you all speak/write of? "EXTREME SARCASM" intended :LOL:
It was 75F here today.
I am sorry for 'rubbing it in' ... I really am, lol
 
 






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