What did you do to your Z today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

[Ikazuchi6]

1st oil change, 1,480 miles. Added Z1 magnetic oil drain bolt. Mobile1 filter. Z1 under shroud service panel is the best thing ever and the race ramps are nice and wide and make being under the vehicle worry free. Whoever Nissan tasked with tightening the oil filter really enjoys his job. The drain bolt was not bad at all. I had to use channel locks to break the filter free.

Great post as I'll be tackling this in probably 1 or 2 weeks. I also have a magnetic drain plug and the same filter ready to install.

What oil did you use? I'm thinking I'll use Mobil 1 since that's my go-to, but I was thinking of using 5-30. That would be convenient since my wife's Bronco uses that weight but I've seen where tuners recommend that weight for tuned Z's. Mine's not tuned yet but hopefully soon, but I do tend to drive my car a bit harder than most...

 

[Hernandooo]

Great post as I'll be tackling this in probably 1 or 2 weeks. I also have a magnetic drain plug and the same filter ready to install.

What oil did you use? I'm thinking I'll use Mobil 1 since that's my go-to, but I was thinking of using 5-30. That would be convenient since my wife's Bronco uses that weight but I've seen where tuners recommend that weight for tuned Z's. Mine's not tuned yet but hopefully soon, but I do tend to drive my car a bit harder than most...

5w-30 tuned or not. The recommended 0w-20 is IMO too thin, and burns hella fast. It's only recommended to improve gas efficiency. Top it off, HIGHLY suggest getting an oil catch can, The amount of Oil my can catches every 2500km is surprising

 

[Ikazuchi6]

5w-30 tuned or not. The recommended 0w-20 is IMO too thin, and burns hella fast. It's only recommended to improve gas efficiency. Top it off, HIGHLY suggest getting an oil catch can, The amount of Oil my can catches every 2500km is surprising

That's what I was thinking. I'll look into the oil catch can...

 

[5amp5on]

Great post as I'll be tackling this in probably 1 or 2 weeks. I also have a magnetic drain plug and the same filter ready to install.

What oil did you use? I'm thinking I'll use Mobil 1 since that's my go-to, but I was thinking of using 5-30. That would be convenient since my wife's Bronco uses that weight but I've seen where tuners recommend that weight for tuned Z's. Mine's not tuned yet but hopefully soon, but I do tend to drive my car a bit harder than most...

I used super tech 0/20 full synthetic. I will most likely start using 5/30 on my next change and I am also thinking about doing the catch can. Someone on here even said there is a tech bulletin with Nissan that says 5/30 should be used at Australia dealerships.

I know some people hate on super tech oil but I've been using it on all our vehicles for years and years and we've never had any issues whatsoever.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

I use this oil. Brand is a preference
Filter is 15208-9E01A

 

[Mugzilla]

The continuing saga. Buffed the paint with a waffle pad and DIY Detail's gold standard. Got rid of the "haze" and a pre-purchase swirl some open-mouth-breather put in the paint. (Someone rubbed the paint and scratched a swirl-ball in).

Anyways, after buffing, I would use a wet microfiber cloth with rinseless wash on it, then a dry microfiber to dry and remove residue.

Will rinseless wash the whole thing, and do another "surface prep" wipedown before ceramic.

Adams Polishes ceramic is the next big step. Probably Wednesday.

Note: I found TWO defects in the paint. When I go to a new panel, I still hit each spot again.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

@Mugzilla
Have you tested the depth of the paint before correction? Curious what the numbers are from factory

 

[Mugzilla]

@Mugzilla
Have you tested the depth of the paint before correction? Curious what the numbers are from factory

Nope. I am not doing a paint "correction", per se. Just a polishing buffing. My compound and pad won't cut that much. Only way to really f up would be to heat the paint up badly, or slip and have the pad mounting plate slap off the side of the car.

 

[Resnort]

My Proto is pretty skinny on the yellow. Yellow is one of the worst colors for coverage, and it appears to have a grey primer which probably didn't help.

 

[ZillaZ]

I.
Need.
Race Ramps.


What model of RR are people using?

 

[METROdigital]

Is there really paint on these cars?!?

I feel like someone just waved a spray can around.

 

[Ikazuchi6]

Just got through with the oil change. I took today off, so why not...

Sometimes things don't go as planned. All of it went smooth, until...

I don't have ramps so I was on my back and a couple of the bolts for the cover didn't want to go on at the end, so I loosened them all up to get the last few started. All good. But the 2nd to last one on the first side felt wonky. It "looked" straight. Gave it a little extra. Hmmm...it's not playing ball. That's all it took, backing it out bent it a little and took out some threads. I don't want to crawl under the car again later for one bolt so I smoothed it out with a file and got it mostly straight. I moved that bolt to an easier location, eased it in and got it to lock down. Sometimes shit happens lol.

I may order another bolt when I get the Z1 pan...I can see that making life easier.

Edit: I see now the Z1 pan comes with new hardware.

 

[Ikazuchi6]

​

Oh I also looked at the battery, not surprised that it's not maintenance-free. But it was definitely low on water. Anybody looked into changing their battery out for an AGM or something else?

 

[5amp5on]

I.
Need.
Race Ramps.


What model of RR are people using?

These are the ones I ordered after doing all the measurements, they work great.

If you are tight on space order the two piece units.

Race Ramps 56" 10.8 degree approach

 

[staying_tuned]

Hit the trunk with butyl aluminum backed mat and closed cell foam to dampen down the road noise and prepare for a speaker upgrade down the road. I use this stuff on everything including our home appliances. Disassembly was really straight forward, no broken clips. That weather-seal on the rearmost plastic panel takes awhile to reseat over the plastic lip, spent 20 minutes on that alone. The rest flew. I could tell the moment I closed the trunk that it made a big difference.

Not very well caught in the pics is the hidden wheel well area that I spent a fair amount of time on. You have to be inside the trunk to access it but your entire arm can fit enitrely on the left side behind the sheetmetal baffle, the right side is a little more limited but I'd suspect about 4 sq/ft of total deadener is back there between butyl and closed cell foam. I'm running 305s in the rear which are a bit chatty.

The difference is immediately noticed when idling, driving and/or playing music. I can't wait to do the doors later on. I suspect I used about $30 in deadener between excess butyl mat and foam that I had laying around. All in all it took under 2 hours. Most of that was rolling (invest in a $5 deadener roller if you don't have one, well worth it) though, not a very technical trunk to deaden.