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That’s about where my target is. 19x10.5” and then +22-+25 depending on the rim I end up with. I was working with a Porsche 911 cup driver / race car builder that has built and raced BMW, McLaren, and Porsche, and he told me to go as wide as possible up front and then square if I want to...

So, You didn’t see the “🤣” in my message? That is what we call a “joke”. You said,”I don’t what to hear…”. So I thought I would be a comedian for a moment so we can all have fun. Hope you have a good day buddy.

That’s not enough tire 🤣

Yeah. You would have to be lowered and run a little extra negative camber for sure. But if the goal is to get as much grip as possible then that is part of the recipe anyways. If you’re going for a look then that’s another story. It’s always confused me why so many go to 9.5” up front with...

You should be able to go 10.5 +22 up front. Others have. You can fit 285/35. Hopefully others that have will chime in.

Tire performance (one type vs another) has a “give and take” sliding scale. The closer a tire is to a performance summer tire or track day tire or even a pure track tire being on the far end of the scale, the less and less traction you will have in cold conditions and or wet conditions...

I’m sure it’s a pretty decent difference but the price of the stock Nismo shocks pushed me toward coilovers. Especially since I was wanting higher spring rates as well. Annex basis the spring rate off of desired suspension frequency rather than just the rates themselves. If you read up on...

If the Swift springs will work on a Nismo or Performance, then the Nismo shocks should be a direct swap.

Factory suspension is not ride hight adjustable.

Are you asking about factory suspension?

This is precisely why I stated previously that “need” in this realm is subjective. To me, the need for a better set of dampers was obvious and absolute. People get stuck on the springs and spring rates. Though they are absolutely of importance and can make a difference, the dampers are where...

Sorry, I was being facetious, and it was a rhetorical question.

How does BMW get away with -2* front and rear on M cars ? Without excessive tire wire!

“Need” is a very subjective misused word in the performance Automotive realm. Personally. I think (based on years of driving and upgrading) that the factory shocks belong on a Sentra driven by your Grandma, and not a Sports coupe. They belong on my garage floor. So for that matter, due to...

My .02. The whole Nismo/ not Nismo, Nismo Nissan OEM/ Nissan parts counter aftermarket Nismo thing is being way overthought and worried about. The Nismo sway bar breaking issue is a very weird fluke and is probably something that was found out and corrected. Especially due to where and how...

Yup, I’ve ran into the same thing. One shop just looked at the car from 100 ft away and said “nope”. lol.

You just organically struggled through the same situation as MANY “do it yourself” guys have gone through. It’s one of those things that you learn from and get better at things as you work through them. It’s hard work and frustrating but it’s worth its weight in gold! Saving yourself hard...

I did the same thing. Went to every site and wrote down all of the info I could find on the stiffness % over stock. Z1 seemed to have too much rear bar to me. I didn’t want the Nismo or ST based on the issues that were found by a few members. The Stillen if memory serves, had more adjustment...

All Nismo is not from Japan. I believe they try to source out to companies within the market. Like Spl. Which is USA. KW is German I believe. (Over there somewhere.).

All of the rear arms and the adjustable end links and front uppers are all fully legit. They are spl and just a different color. However you pay more for the exact same product just because it says Nismo. Also all Nismo forged rims are Rays.