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Keep in mind the tach is showing a graphic representation of what the digital electronics are doing. Nissan likely sets the rev-limiter conservatively and may be adjusting for gearing and rate of RPM increase, like lower in lower gears. Having a range of over-rev like to 8.5k is just old school...

BG Products have a good rep in the service industry but DO incentivize their sales at dealerships. Additives are like UFOs and ETs - 99.9% are complete BS. It's the other 0.1 %, like BG, that are interesting!! MOA is mostly an antioxidant and not really needed if you change a synthetic before...

I heard a very light whine after start-up only once with my 6MT. Car hadn't been started for 2 weeks and the sound went away after about a minute. Didn't notice if the clutch had any effect as I let the engine idle in neutral.

I checked my Z's steering rack travel and feel. There is no column lock, at least on the manual trans, so this can be done easily. I found 480 degrees from center to each stop = 2 and 2/3 turns lock-to-lock. Subjectively the Z steering feel isn't as communicative as a 4th gen Miata or Fiat...

That does sound like front suspension geometry with differences side to side. It might be a problem in the electric power steering assist. If you have access to a safe large dirt area, try the steering with the car rolling in neutral gear with the engine off. The steering will be stiff (high...

I've used clay bars, foam pads with clay-like coating and machine polishing with a clay-like pad. I check the paint feel first and decide which to use based on how much contamination and the area size. They all work the same and the mitts are similar to the rubber clay-like coatings found on...

@AlfredoGonzalez What speeds are you noticing the difference turning? Is it normal left & right in residential neighborhoods or faster canyon carving pushing the suspension?

The dealer's scan tool may still be able to read a stored diagnostic code so worth a try. Most cars drastically reduce power if the wheels really spin and lots of traction/stability sensor input occurs. I've never heard of one refusing to go into drive or move. I sometimes drive my manual...

Most octane boosters contain MMT (manganese) which auto makers frown on due to possible emission control damage at high doses. Low doses won't even discolor spark plugs let alone the reddish looking tailpipes I've seen at track events. I've used Boostane and Torco street formulas in supercharged...

I'm surprised you didn't get a warning. Modern cars either show something on the display or the pads have mechanical screechers. Backing plates on rotors is bad news. Pad wear is so subjective. Driving habits like faster acceleration in stop & go, even at low speeds, really take a toll compared...

@labornurse Warranty for brakes and clutches can be iffy and often goodwill, despite abuse. The pads likely didn't bed-in and left an uneven transfer layer on the rotors. I've heard ceramic pads work almost exclusive by transfer adhesion hence the low brake dust.

Interesting design with an outer vertical connecting 3 canards. By comparison, the stock Nismo front splitter probably doesn't change downforce as much. Your Z has nice color accents on the splitter & skirts (y)

Yes. BTW, I just checked and the current Castrol SRF is DOT 3/4. See https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/4FFC9E28DDFAE514802585BA00487114/$File/WEPP-BS7LMU.pdf

@ Thefunk - Stay away from any DOT 5.0 silicone fluid (bad pedal feel, especially sport bikes). DOT 5.1 is for anti-locks at low ambient temperatures but not usually racing temps. For street/track look for a high boiling temp DOT 3 or 4 intended for track use such as Wilwood, Motul or Redline...

I'm guessing the performance package pads are Akebono ceramic. No dust but not up to the OP track needs. Considering the Z's weight, high temp pads and brake fluid should be a must for running a few track hot laps. I like the pedal feedback of braided lines too :)

I used to work for a Datsun dealer when the injected 280 first came to the U.S. Assuming your injectors are high mileage I'd start with having them flow tested & checked for leakage. The symptoms you describe sound like intermittent leaking, possibly caused by internal deposit buildup.

I had to open Instagram in a new tab to see Nismo Nick's vid. Hope police catch whoever did the attack.

I watch the oil temp more than pressure. Up to say 240 - 250 F is fine in hot weather while working the engine revs. Modern factory built engines have micro-finished crank journals which play well with 0W-20 oil. The metal peaks are lower so thick oil isn't needed to separate moving bearings...