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Yeah that's normal. Changing the ride height changes the geometry of the suspension. You need an alignment to correct your camber. Your toe is probably off as well.

The z1 hatch poppers solved this really well on mine

Ahhh right I remember you posting that. Ouch. Well thankfully it's fixed

Oof, how hard was it to get that shift knob off? Gonna have to do that soon to install my short shifter. Looks solid!

Yes the new Z uses the same saddle tank design the older cars did. Radium makes a kit that can correct it the same way too. I don't think they're pushing it for the new Z just yet though https://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Hanger-Surge-Tank-Nissan-370Z-P1730.aspx.

My idle is around 600-800 as well. Never ever had it stall though. I’d bump it up a bit like your friend said. Maybe try 800 and then 1000 if that still doesn’t work? If I recall you’re also running flex fuel as well so that may be related. Ethanol is less dense energy-wise so the low flow...

I went for the Nismo clutch right away. This car has a lot of rev hang due to the incredibly heavy clutch/flywheel assembly it comes with. It's a performance modification all on its own. I documented this more here: https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/nismo-flywheel-weight.1739/...

JN1BZ4BH8PM312145 2023 And there it is. The damage doesn't look that bad, but just the raw parts alone was $18k, and that's only for the stuff you can see externally. The total estimate was already up around $40k without even checking under the hood. These cars are very expensive to repair.

Unfortunately I think you're about to see mine show up on this thread. A couple weeks ago I had a driver pace me on the highway revving like he wanted to race - in heavy rain! Tried to ignore him. Next thing I know I he was perpendicular cutting across in front of me at 60 mph. Lift-off...

This guy has done a fair amount of drag racing with his Z. It's pretty heavily modded with upgraded turbos and more. He has his 60-130 down to around 6 flat on his auto. (Sometimes he can get below 6 if everything lines up)

Yes it's available, no it won't void your warranty (nor will any cat-back aftermarket exhaust). Can buy it through Z1 Motorsports https://www.z1motorsports.com/nismo/nismo/nismo-2023-nissan-cat-back-street-exhaust-p-36951.html, your dealer, or any other number of suppliers.

If you already have exhaust and downpipes you don't have to worry about chatter. It's minor compared to the NVH you're already getting. Chatter concerns are only for when you're running an ultra lightweight flywheel or if you're all stock and sensitive to noise (even if you say you aren't)...

If you want the super technical explanation, this is a good resource: https://www.theautopian.com/our-suspension-engineer-tells-you-his-opinion-on-wheel-spacers/ tl;dr though, yes, it definitely increases wear on your wheel bearings in particular. I'm currently running 20mm spacers in front...

Wait the Nismo doesn't have heated seats?? While it makes sense now that I think about the Recaro seats, that's still hilarious.

Ah ok gotcha makes sense. Yeah I'm opting to fix the handling characteristics first before starting to dial up the power. Sounds like we're both moving toward the same general goal. You'll have a ton of fun once the break-in period and tune are wrapped up!

Interesting, the description does make sense though. How about rear traction? One thing I've been trying to really dial in is grip under open throttle. If it already breaks loose while at stock power it will be a mess as I dial it up. The R-pros are interesting because they're 16k spring...

Please update when you get a chance to drive with the R-pros. Your setup is very close to mine and the next step I'm considering is which coilovers to go with.

For the front sway bar, you could totally do that in your driveway. Even if you add the adjustable end links in. For the rear though, it's a bit trickier like others have said. While I think you MIGHT be able to get the rear in and out without removing the exhaust, it's going to be difficult...

I guess I should mention I did install the z1 diff brace and rear subframe bushing collars today as well. So some of that chassis stiffening you were talking about. I'm sure that's helping quite a bit too. If I had gone with the inner sway bar setting I think it would have been too much on...

This post came with fantastic timing. I had some space on a lift rented out today to install my z1 sway bars. Was originally going to go with the inner fitting, but after reading this decided to go with the outer when assembling. Don't regret it. Not experiencing any of the nvh degradation...